Laser cut windows for Atlas SW8/9/1200

[rnb3]

Hey guys and gals,

I'm building an Atlas O Scale SW1200 and am searching for a set of the rumored, long-lost laser cut windows for this model. I believe these were sold by Chooch Enterprises Inc. (or Ultra Scale) some time in the past. I don't see them on the Chooch website and have sent them an email; waiting for a response.

I have replaced the overly thick roof on the Atlas model and would like to address the same shell thickness issue visible at the windows. I tried the Bob Sobol method of using a mill to undercut the front windows but chickened out on the rear ones!

[rnb3]

Good news; Chooch replied that they still carry them! Very fast reply too!

[rogruth]

Very nice job on the roof.

[up148]

That will be a great looking model when done. Whose footboards did you use? I managed to save one set of Chooch windows I bought over a decade ago, but good to hear Chooch has them again.

[DaveJfr0]

Can you take photos when you install them. I am curious if they ever fixed the issue of the gaps between the inserts and the shell.

Here's a photo of the windows with the backing still on the plexiglass windows. I shined a light into the shell to show the gaps around the brown backing and the shell. Some of them were pretty bad, almost as bad as my photography from 10 years ago, lol. Can't believe its been 10 years since I did that unit. I showed this to Mike and the replacements were equally bad. Slightly oversize would have been better, so one could file them down rather than have straight up air gaps.

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Those look like KV Models footboards. I plan on investigating using their etched parts to upgrade my units. Was hoping someone else would post about it before I bought. Maybe Rick can be that guy.

David

[DaveJfr0]

We like to share photos over here, so here's another SW I did up. I have 3 in Southern that I need to either redo or complete. Here's one that was "done", but I'll probably redo it with KV Models gear once Rick proves its worth it.

I'm okay with my overly thick roof, lol. I have too many projects to take the time to fix that. Same goes for the thick handrails.

Btw, even the rectangular pieces were bad. Just look at the gap in the right-hand window over the 38 on the side of the cab. I settled and just used them anyway.

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[rnb3]

Good morning guys!

I have a blog going over on the A&O layout website about this build; http://forum.aorailroad.com/t/another-o ... ld/1386/27

The footboards and end steps are in fact KV Models products. So far, I'm pretty happy with them. I have more of their etchings to upgrade the radiator, fan, and associated screens. These etchings are what motivated me to dig this project out of the stack and get it going.

[DaveJfr0]

Too many forums to keep track of, lol.

I'll keep an eye on that post. I am mainly concerned with how you do the radiator/core/new grill installs around the front of the hood and whether or not that allows enough space for a Tang Band speaker there and if it still sounds good....assuming you're going with installing a Loksound and a TB speaker that is...

[rnb3]

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Worked on a few details over the weekend. A couple of the details I’m refining are the grab irons, hood vent, battery box vents, and exhaust stacks.

For the grab irons, I’m replacing all the factory oversized grabs with .020 brass grabs. In order to do this I need to fill the original holes and drill new correct holes. I opened the factory hole to .050 and used CA to fill the hole with .050 styrene rod. When I’m sure the CA has fully hardened, I’ll center drill the new holes.

I don’t actually know what the next detail is. In every picture I find with a top view of the hood, there is a pipe like object sticking out of the hood right behind the radiator grill. I don’t know it this a car body vent, or maybe the fill tube for the radiator. The Atlas model has a plastic blob inserted in the metal shell at the correct location. When I was disassembling mine, the blob wouldn’t release and was destroyed. I made a new one by turning some styrene in a Dremel, using sanding sticks to shape it.

For the battery box vents, Atlas used a plastic insert into the metal shell to simulate the louvers. Again, these were destroyed during disassembly, so I am filling the opening with styrene and CA. After sanding and smoothing, I will use Archer surface detail decals to replace the louvers.

A big visual detail is the exhaust stacks. I decided to scratch build a set of the box and screen style spark arrestors common on MP, MKT, D&RGW, C&O, and a few other roads in the 60’s and 70’s. I used styrene, and “guessedimated” the dimensions to what looked right. I shortened the factory stacks and used solvent to glue everything together. The screen is aluminum and will be attached with CA and weathered after final painting. I really like these, and will use the same style on all of the Antioc & Dover non-turbo locomotives (GP9, RS-3M).

[rnb3]

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The jury is still out on the KV Models radiator core. The etching is very nice! There are some valid concerns about it blocking sound. Until I get to the part of the build where I fit the speaker, I won’t be able to make my final decision. In the meantime, I went ahead and did some finish painting on the KV part. I spray painted the core a base dark brown. After this was cured, I dry brushed silver over the entire part to force a contrast in the texture. On top of this, a dry brushed a small amount of light green around the lower edges of the cores to simulate brass corrosion. Finally, I dry brushed all of the high points with a light cream color to simulate sun light hitting the edges. If the sound concerns dictate this part not being used, I bet it ends up in the Ricksburg, W.Va. engine facility junk pile…no detail wasted!

[up148]

That's going to be an awesome SW when you get done Rick.......nice job.

Really like that open window Dave, what about edging it with a black marker to look like a frame. I outlined my windows and openings with a marker before installing the window inserts and it really helped on losing the depth of the plastic. Believe it was suggested on the instructions.

[DaveJfr0]

That's going to be an awesome SW when you get done Rick.......nice job.

Really like that open window Dave, what about edging it with a black marker to look like a frame. I outlined my windows and openings with a marker before installing the window inserts and it really helped on losing the depth of the plastic. Believe it was suggested on the instructions.

Putting Black Marker on the edge does not fix the look when you look at the cab windows head on and see a giant gap between the "glass" and the shell.

[up148]

Very true Dave. It would only make a window that is a focal point (opened) look more finished. Even with gaps, these windows are miles ahead of the stock Atlas windows.

You are a far superior modeler to me, but just guessing here, could you fill in around the window (inside) using some of the micro crystal (I think that is the name) gap filling adhesive for installing plastic windows. You could then paint the adhesive the interior color of your cab.

[DaveJfr0]

I'd be better off drawing these up on a computer and having my own lasercut somewhere. Might take a few tries to get the perfect fit, or at least...slightly larger than the hole they're intended to go into. In any case, I don't have any time for that I'm afraid.

[PRR Man]

Dave, looking at the photos of your SW units, it appears the edges of the new window material were not blackened.
That makes a big difference in appearance of the 'glass', as being thin.