What's New on the PRR Panhandle 2.0?

[healey36]

Hey George...stumbled onto this while searching for the end of the internet. Found it interesting at a macro-level. Can't vouch for accuracy or relevance...

http://abandonedonline.net/location/pittsburgh-cincinnati-chicago-st-louis-railroad/

Paul

[chuck]

Nice research. Cool site

[G3750]

Hey George...stumbled onto this while searching for the end of the internet. Found it interesting at a macro-level. Can't vouch for accuracy or relevance...

http://abandonedonline.net/location/pittsburgh-cincinnati-chicago-st-louis-railroad/

Paul

Very nice! And it does look like you did find the end of the internet.

George

[G3750]

Updated 7/1/2019:

Started on the benchwork east of the Stone Arch.

First, I put another cross-member into the lower table (note the corner reinforcement).

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Next, I temporarily clamped an upright to a cross-member to support the sub-roadbed. The sub-roadbed will receive a framework of 2"x2"s underneath it for support.

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Then I cut a board that will serve as the eastern-most abutment. The Stone Arch will be screwed to it to anchor that end of the span. The board will be fastened to the plywood below it as well as the sub-roadbed itself.

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Here's a side view showing the different heights involved. Track on the Stone Arch will rest upon doubled 1/8" black Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. To the right, it will abut the 3/8" Vinylbed atop the plywood sub-roadbed.

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George

[G3750]

Updated 7/4/2019:

Happy Independence Day everyone!!!!

I focused on construction of the sub-roadbed for the Pennsy Cross-section (eastern approach to the Stone Arch).

In these next two photos, I'm clamping the longitudinal stiffener for the side that will be closest to the viewer when the section is flipped over.

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This photo hints at how the section will dove-tail with the existing benchwork.

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Now I am positioning the other longitudinal stiffener.

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After flipping the section upright, I screwed the sub-roadbed to the longitudinal stiffeners. The vertical board will snuggle up against the Stone Arch.

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The photo is a little blurry, but carpenter's shims are our friends!

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Finally, I added a diagonal brace between the 90 degree cross-members. I think we eliminated any chance of roadbed deflection.

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George

[chuck]

It is really great how you are showing step by step details. Start/finish is nice but you learn a lot seeing how the parts go together. Thank you for taking the time and making the effort, it is really appreciated.

[G3750]

It is really great how you are showing step by step details. Start/finish is nice but you learn a lot seeing how the parts go together. Thank you for taking the time and making the effort, it is really appreciated.

You are welcome, but it also helps me. Later on, when I'm asking my "what were you thinking?", I'll have a chance at remembering.

George

[G3750]

Updated 7/5/2019:

One hatch now in place.

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George

[G3750]

Updated 7/6/2019:

Here's the next step in the hatch saga - cutting the Pennsy cross-section to mate up with the hatch.

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Next I am going to screw down all the pieces.

George

[healey36]

Is the hatch going to be hinged or a lift-out of some sort? I should have made provision for one in a back-corner of our set-up.

Paul

[G3750]

Is the hatch going to be hinged or a lift-out of some sort? I should have made provision for one in a back-corner of our set-up.

Paul

Hi Paul.

I don't think I have the room to hinge the hatch cover. It is surrounded on all three sides with track and the back wall is very close by. My thinking is lift-out. In my vision, a small ridge, hill, or elevated embankment occupies the top of the hatch. A high tension tower will take most of one corner.

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At least, that's the plan for the moment. By the way, the figure (unintentionally) shows the opening under most of the Blooming Mill as well. That will be needed to reach areas further east and northeast on the layout in case of derailments (none anticipated of course. ).

George

[healey36]

Probably tough to properly hinge a trapezoidal hatch cover anyway, especially if there's tall scenics in place (like a hi-tension tower). You're going to have good access for the occasional mishap (or for dusting)...I've got one spot where it's probably a bit more than a fifty-inch reach. Never had anything derail back there, but need to occasionally clean up. Should have put a hatch back there.

[G3750]

Probably tough to properly hinge a trapezoidal hatch cover anyway, especially if there's tall scenics in place (like a hi-tension tower). You're going to have good access for the occasional mishap (or for dusting)...I've got one spot where it's probably a bit more than a fifty-inch reach. Never had anything derail back there, but need to occasionally clean up. Should have put a hatch back there.

Well, I'm expecting Murphy and his Law to be in full effect around here.

George

[G3750]

Updated 7/7/2019:

Well, I learned something interesting. Last night I was looking at the Pennsy cross-section piece of sub-roadbed as it sat in place (but not connected) and thinking it wasn’t lining up squarely with the adjoining Stone Arch. I couldn’t quite work out what was wrong.

Today, I removed it and then the lower table top (it was not fastened in any way either) upon which it sits for cutting. You may be able to see the problem in this photo.

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After doing so, I discovered that the rib structure it sits upon has not been screwed to the adjoining table. I had clamped the rib structure to the table to the left. It has actually sagged a bit, so the previous measurements I made assuming a level and solid foundation will have to be re-done. That’s actually a piece of good news because I had not yet made all the connections permanent. Better now than later.

I then leveled the table. Thank goodness I used leveling glides on the legs! Turning the glide clock-wise extends it.

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I then attached the rib structure to the table using carriage bolts. The order is bolt head, fender washer, 1st 2"x2", 2nd 2"x2", fender washer, lock washer, nut. Two bolts to hold the tables together should be enough; I drilled additional holes for wiring.

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And of course, I used the bubble level to make sure we were OK throughout.

Next steps will be to:

• Replace the table top and screw it down.
• Permanently attach the supporting table to the Stone Arch. I also have to drill a hole through the table and the bottom of the arch to allow the wires of the camp fire to pass through. Apparently, some hobos have built a fire inside the arch!
  

  

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• Test fit the Stone Arch on the table top and see if it fits back in the spots I marked for it. If not, we'll need to adjust.
• Test fit the Pennsy cross-section sub-roadbed back in place and adjust for heights.
• Screw everything down permanently.
• Start installing the vertical supports and cross-members that will hold up the masonite and foam for terrain.

There's still a lot of work to go on this part of the layout.

George

[G3750]

Updated 7/7/2019 (PM):

I think we are finally done with this segment. It's not perfect, but I've done what I can.

I started out by screwing the supporting table to the bottom of the Stone Arch's base. I did drill a hole for the wires, but it won't be big enough for all 6. I will end up running the wires along the floor of the arch out the back and disguising them with ground cover and trees.

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The next step was to flip over the arch, place it in position and screw it down. The corner braces will keep it from moving.

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Finally, I screwed down the sub-roadbed, making sure it dove-tailed correctly with the edge of the layout and the hatch.

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Here's the mostly finished sub-roadbed piece. I still need to add vertical supports, but I'm tired. That's it for today.

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George