Modeling Websites

[chuck]

The cutter has pretty impressive cutting techniques. In many respects it is too smart. It tries to arrange parts layout to minimize waste. Hard part is trying to tell it what you are trying to cut out versus what you are trying to save. If I could use the entire 12x24 Matt for print and cut this would be a snap. If it could "scan" like a scanner that would be easy too. The built in "scanner" is used mainly to find origin points.

The machine I was really interested in was by click-n-cut called 'the force'. It also had 1lb cutting force but it had a camera for scanning and even an option to load a mini Dremel for routing. They discontinued it because it was too complicated. Their software was more aligned with cad/cam instead of arts/crafts.

Cricut has a large customer base and product/accessory line and you can pick up stuff at Michaels and JoAnnes and Amazon. I just have to learn to adapt their techniques to what I want to do.

Printing on plastic isn't that easy, the inks are designed for paper. You also have to deal with scaling issues and adjust for pixel size. A plotter might be better but it would need to be a flatbed.

[John Webster]

The stick and tissue airplane modelers have been printing on tissue for some time. They have also been building sheet balsa models with printed finishes.

Here is Paul Bradley's site with downloadable patterns:

http://parmodels.com/Plans/Free%20Flight.htm

[Roy]

The stick and tissue airplane modelers have been printing on tissue for some time. They have also been building sheet balsa models with printed finishes.

Here is Paul Bradley's site with downloadable patterns:

http://parmodels.com/Plans/Free%20Flight.htm

Thanks, John! I wouldn't be shocked, if they're printing on plastic covering. Tissue, silkspan, or plastic, I figure there's a shinkage factor involved. Or, are the wing, fuselage, etc. subassemblies printed after building, covering, and final shrinkage?

[Roy]

The machine I was really interested in was by click-n-cut called 'the force'. It also had 1lb cutting force but it had a camera for scanning and even an option to load a mini Dremel for routing. They discontinued it because it was too complicated. Their software was more aligned with cad/cam instead of arts/crafts.

For those wanting to look it up, that's Klic-n-Kut Force. Your first post got me looking up home laser engravers. You can get them, but, at this point, they'll only remove .020" of metal. See this: https://all3dp.com/1/best-home-desktop-laser-cutter-engraver-aio-machine/#section-laser-cutting-guide. At this point, best to have this done by a job shop. For yucks, I even looked up home CNC plasma cutters. They make 'em(!), but they start around $15,000. For metal, I'm thinking photo etch, followed (if necessary) by laser or plasma cutting - both done, by job shop. Kemtron got a lot of mileage out of photo etching, and that was a long time ago.

[John Webster]

For the tissue covered models the tissue is printed before covering. The sheet balsa models are printed on the balsa in 3" X 36" sheets, the parts are cut out and the plane is then glued together.

[Roy]

One of the best birthday gifts my mother gave me, was a model rocket starter kit. I think it was Estes, but it might have been Centuri. It included a beginner rocket kit with a plastic nose cone, and tail cone with integral fins. The starter package also included a model rocket booklet, which showed how to make everything on a model rocket, and it's launcher, from scratch. Wonderful instant-gratification nourishment, coupled with greatly appreciated nurture.

This is the last model rocket I built. I think I was in high school, at the time. I got the V-2 plans from a library book. It's 1:72 or 1:76 scale, to go with Airfix military figures and vehicles. I think Airfix even had a V-2 in that scale, although not a flying model. Estes or Centuri had a V-2 kit, but in a much larger scale.

I turned the balsa nose and tail cones from balsa blocks on my Unimat. For the first and only time, I made the fins from balsa. Previously, all my fins were cardstock. The body was rolled from typing paper, using white glue. I always made ejection baffles, to obviate the need for chute wadding. In this small model, I used a streamer, instead of a parachute.

From reading other model rocket books, I knew how to balance the model. I flew it once. It flew beautifully. For the flight, I temporarily glued on a launch lug, which has long since been removed.

[sleepmac]

Roy, nice! I assemble and fly model rockets several times a year with a local club. I have an altimeter and the last flight with it was 696 ft.

Dan Weinhold

[Roy]

Roy, nice! I assemble and fly model rockets several times a year with a local club. I have an altimeter and the last flight with it was 696 ft.

Dan Weinhold

Thanks, Dan. I haven't heard of model rocket altimeters, before. I remember they used to sell small capsule-borne movie cameras, so you could take movies of your rocket flights.

[sleepmac]

Roy, there are some miniature video recorders out there, but those are reserved for rockets a bit larger than the ones I fly.

Dan Weinhold