The Erie-Built

[bob turner]

I joined, with only maybe four friends. I was simply overwhelmed with e-mail reminders of how beautiful the scrambled eggs were with that artistic parsley. Plus, I have a brother that gets all his information from InfoWars. No time for that. I guess I shall miss out.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

I was simply overwhelmed with e-mail reminders of how beautiful the scrambled eggs were with that artistic parsley.

[E7]

I realize many eschew joining FB for good and sufficient reasons. There are, however, many groups dedicated to modeling. For example, there's a 2-rail/Proto 48 group that occasionally features work by Gene Deimling. And, Jay is correct, most postings receive feedback.
You can be on Facebook and refrain from posting political opinions (an option never rejected by me...) and remain pretty anonymous.[/quote]

I am a member of sorts. I joined to get information on a group of musicians and to see if they had anything available on CD. As far as plastering all my personal stuff out there, never really appealed to me, although I could probably market it as a cure for insomnia. Whenever i would check in, there would be eleventy-seven friend requests from people I never heard of or knew existed. I guess they were trying to see who could amass the most "friends"! Can you say: Get a LIFE!

All that said, I do understand the commercial value.

[2railjon]

There are some worthwhile train groups on FB. I enjoy
2-rail/Proto 48 group, O scale 2 rail swap meet, O scale 3R to 2R conversions. Unfortunately there are no artistic shots of parsley on my layout.

[J. S. Bach]

There are some worthwhile train groups on FB. I enjoy
2-rail/Proto 48 group, O scale 2 rail swap meet, O scale 3R to 2R conversions. Unfortunately there are no artistic shots of parsley on my layout.

I happen to agree with you on F/B. If you add in a couple of telephone, vintage audio, and traffic sign groups, I find that I spend waaaaayyyy too much time there!

[bob turner]

I put the F-M aside to work on other things - mostly because the fancy chrome and anti-climbers kinda scared me. Last night, after much procrastination, I did both, using K&S brass, instead of cutting my own. This is the final version of those two items. Time to open a few windows and drill for handrails, and paint. I may do some more detailing on the fuel tank skirts, and absolutely have to add something under the rear door other than a coupler.

That diaphragm is a drop-dead gorgeous Sunset casting. I was going to install it even though it was solid, but turns out it is spring loaded, and "gives" just like a real diaphragm.

Lots more work to do, but thought you would like to see an update.

DSC02681.JPG (1.73 MiB) Viewed 8606 times

DSC02684.JPG (818.96 KiB) Viewed 8606 times

[rex desilets]

Fine work, Bob!

[De Bruin]

2nd-ing Rex's comment- looking really good, assume you had the final casting modified with those counter sunk drill guides in the door windows or are those tapped before assembly ? Once drilled do you square this out the olde fashioned way with various shaped small files or do you have a more exact mill based process for that? What about the car-body stirrups on the ends and doors, drill the side casting edges's or back solder-weld?

BTW, those fluted nose wings are a most distinctive look indeed.

http://www.thedieselshop.us/FMMOD.HTML

Good stuff Bob, great project indeed.

[bob turner]

My life is simple. I drill holes, countersink the ones that will show, bolt the sides to 3/8" square brass, ends drilled and tapped 2-56. The square brass is drilled #43, with 2-56 screws going into the roof casting. Everything is assembled, tightened down, and when I am pretty sure all is in alignment, I dump liquid acid flux on all the seams, deposit little pieces of solder here and there, and heat the entire thing on fire bricks until solder flows. Then I touch each seam with solder until all seams and screw heads are coated. Then I grind the screw heads flush.

Truck mounts are screwed on to 1/4"square brass, soldered longitudinally about 1/16" up from the bottom edge. They also hold the nose casting in place.

The last step is the four stirrup steps and fuel tank applique - and of course handrail holes. I have not yet decided how to make the steps - F-M steps are not dainty things. But the sides are really thick, so I will probably screw them on with 0-80 flatheads.

I was really freaked out with that corrugated wing deal - did not think I could get it straight enough. But I am happy. They are glued on the car body, so removal down the line will be trivial. The anti-climber also freaked me out. My PAs have lacked this detail. I am now comfortable making them, and soldering them to the pilot.

I wonder if Atlas has screw-on stirrup steps? That would reduce my work load.

[rex desilets]

Ah! Now I see why your models are bullet proof!
Re the steps: did you check the PSC catalog?

[big bad jim]

Atlas shows all front, middle, and rear steps as in stock. If they meet your requirements aesthetically, perhaps that would be one way to go.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Ah! Now I see why your models are bullet proof!
Re the steps: did you check the PSC catalog?

Or with P&D?

[stephen neill]

It looks great Bob; thanks for describing your methods. On the steps, would you want door stop steps, and if so, how many?
Steve Neill

[bob turner]

Jim - a link? I just looked through all five pages of Erie-Built parts, and didn't spot them.

I can make stirrups, obviously. The F-M steps are blocky looking - almost like you could take two rungs of an Athearn box car ladder and go with that. I would buy them in a heartbeat.

I probably should have bought the plastic fuel tank and pilot and had them inverstment cast - but the original idea was a "doorstop". I think the body is now a step or two above doorstop category (while still ten steps below the imports Jay is working on).

Steve - thanks. I am not ready to go full doorstop on the steps. Actually, about half my CLW and Adams Diesels await steps, but this one deserves true F-M profile steps. If it turns out as well as I expect it to, I shall have to reserve a Sunset Skytop lounge.

Did you see my comment on sand cast E7 sides?

[stephen neill]

Bob - I have been following along. Your ideas on casting E7 sides sound neat. If you end up doing something to cast accurate FM steps, I, and probably others, would be interested in a few. I'd also be interested if you find a source for some and they don't look delicate.
Steve Neill