What's New on the PRR Panhandle 2.0?

[G3750]

Updated 10/11/2018:

I worked on Pier 1 today. Early on, I started applying white (vanilla) splotches on the pier ends to match the prototype. I got a little carried away on the sides, but fixed that with a spray of Desert Bisque. I think it turned out OK.

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I also mixed up some gray wash and applied it to Pier 2, but it was too light. I'm going to need either a few more coats or a slightly less watery mix.

George

[G3750]

Updated 10/12/2018:

I think I'm to the point where Pier 2 is just about done.

I started by masking off the pocket and darkening it. All that soot, cinders, and grime has to go somewhere, right?

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Then using the photos, I applied stains and rust.

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George

[rogruth]

George,
They look great. I don't know if they match the real thing exactely but I wouldn't care.
But I didn't build a model that was to be of such specific things.

[G3750]

George,
They look great. I don't know if they match the real thing exactely but I wouldn't care.
But I didn't build a model that was to be of such specific things.

Thank you! They don't match exactly, and I don't care. I'm trying to get close, but it is much more difficult than I imagined. Still, I'm pretty happy with their overall look. There is another phenomenon at work, though. Standalone, the appearance of the piers is OK. Put them under the bridge and the overall effect improves. They really look much, much better (to me at least) when they are in place. Maybe that's a trick of the eye or the mind.

George

[chuck]

They look great. When they are "in place" the stains are given context. That and the additional changes in lighting from shadows or reflections off the bridge structure makes them even more realistic.

[G3750]

They look great. When they are "in place" the stains are given context. That and the additional changes in lighting from shadows or reflections off the bridge structure makes them even more realistic.

Thanks Chuck! I appreciate it.

I'm just now tackling the East Channel and West Channel piers. They're getting a gray (light dirt / dulling) wash as a starter. Rust and white leeching to follow.

George

[G3750]

Updated 10/22/2018:

Well, another York train show is in the books. I have to say that I had some success. Items acquired for the Panhandle include:

• The last two turnouts needed for the layout. These are from Ross Custom Switches and are equipped with DZ-2500C switch motors.
• About 60 GarGraves pig-tails of different colors (red, black).
• Two DZ-2500C switch machines to replace damaged ones.
• Two DZ-2001L Data Wire Drivers (Switch Buses) to distribute TMCC messages to DZ-2500 switch machines. There will be 3 Switch Buses on the layout, controlling 35 switches.
• Two Evans Design U3TR slow, red, blinking LEDs (with bridge rectifier) for use as navigation lights on the bridge piers.
• Two AtlasO PRR X-29 box cars. Theses were originally made for Middle Division. I wasn’t planning on buying any cars but the deal was too good to pass up.
• A Lionel PowerHouse 180 brick. This was new old stock and at $50, it was the steal of the show.
• Six painted figures
• Five automobiles

I am currently re-organizing my electronics and wiring storage boxes so as to be ready to start wiring (at least 3-6 months off). By mid-week I expect to continue working on the remaining piers.

George

[G3750]

Updated 10/30/2018:

I am hoping this is the completion point for the piers. Below is the East Channel Pier (closest to the WV side of the river).

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The last pier is the West Channel Pier.

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This one exited the spray booth today, hopefully for the final time.

It's time to start moving the bridge into position and marking locations for permanent attachment.

George

[chuck]

They look great. Nice job on the weathering!

[G3750]

They look great. Nice job on the weathering!

Thanks Chuck! Although the north ends of all the piers seem to have gotten more dirt and wear, I deliberately tried to make each pier unique. (West to East)

Pier 7: the dirtiest since it was on land, next to the C&P Route, and a pocket pier (more places to catch dirt).

West Channel Pier: sitting in the middle of the river, it was pretty clean.

East Channel Pier: same treatment, just different specific rust and dirt patterns.

Pier 2: Although sitting in the river, it was a bit more dirty than the 2 channel piers. It's a pocket pier as well.

Pier 1: About the 2nd most dirty, as it sits on land.

I hope I get some time tomorrow to start positioning the bridge.

George

[G3750]

Updated 11/01/2018:

Today I worked on determining the correct final position of the Ohio River bridge. The first steps of this task were taken last year when the size and placement of the backdrop was determined. Today's focus was specifically on the western abutment.

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Since the bridge is at a slight angle relative to the backdrop, it’s important to have the correct distances between the ends of the bridge and backdrop. Without using trigonometry, I have decided to place the western end first, using it as an anchor, and then pivot the bridge around that point. The position of the other (eastern) end of the bridge is critical as well. See Figure 2.

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I want to achieve a Pennsy track and fill profile (see Figure 3) at the eastern end of the bridge, when the track is parallel to the backdrop. The table will be 18” deep and the tracks (4 5/8” center rail to center rail) must sit on benchwork that is 9.5” wide. I briefly toyed with making the table 21” deep but cutting 3” off the aisle width. However, just a few feet to the east, the track goes through a nearly 270 degree curve. To make these O72 curves fit in the room, I couldn’t afford to lose those 3”.

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Here's a look at the western abutment. I have cut the board to size and am test fitting bridge components on it. Corner brackets will hold a shelf upon which will sit the abutment, pedestals, and bridge shoes. These will all press up against the bottom of the truss bridge. However, they will not really be bearing the bridge's weight. It will be attached with screws to board.

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Here's a side view showing all the components. Note the Vinylbed scraps I attached to the top of the abutment (on the right). These are to help me get the height of the bridge (and its position on the abutment) correct.

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Here's a better look at the Vinylbed and their meeting with the bridge.

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Here I have starting putting the stone paper on the face of the abutment. Note the holes for the screws that will hold the bridge.

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George

[pennsy484]

Cool stuff. Do you have a YouTube channel?

[G3750]

Cool stuff. Do you have a YouTube channel?

No. Do you think I should?

I'm not sure how I would go about it, to be honest.

But I'm very flattered that you asked.

Thank you!

George

[G3750]

Updated 11/03/2018:

Work today focused on attaching a bridge section to the western abutment. I used the program Brickyard by Evans Design to print a sheet of stone on paper. I then glued it down on the abutment. Next I positioned the bridge section so that it mated up level with the 3/8" Vinylbed roadbed sections. As shown in the previous post, those have been temporarily nailed to the top of the western abutment.

The next steps were difficult. Using the bridge as a template, I marked the screw holes on the (paper) abutment and drilled small pilot holes. Then I screwed #6 x 1 wood screws into the holes in the bridge and the abutment. I couldn't get this done on the first try as the phillips head screws could not be turned a quarter turn in the space available. Offset screwdrivers wouldn't work. My jeweler's screwdrivers were too long to fit in the work space (inside the bridge) and too difficult to hold strongly. Fortunately, Harbor Freight had a small ratcheting screwdriver ($3.00) that worked.

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Thankfully, it worked. I will have to repeat this process at the eastern end of the bridge.

George

[robert.]

Cool stuff. Do you have a YouTube channel?

No. Do you think I should?

I'm not sure how I would go about it, to be honest.

But I'm very flattered that you asked.

Thank you!

George

It's real easy these days. Buy an iphone 6 or higher. Film your video. hold your phone sideways as you film. When you are done filming hit the little arrow on the top of you screen. Then push that youtube icon. a little window will pop up saying send to youtube. Hit send.It's on youtube.