Scratch Building #6 Turnouts (was Trout Creek/BK Enterprises Turnouts???

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

I'm finding as I cut/bevel the point ends of the rail that the rail starts to bend/twist/turn, don't know if it's the heat from the Dremel disk or from cutting away part of the flange. I can bend them back into shape so it's no big deal.

I've got the #6 frog in position and now dry-fitting the one-piece point/closure rails. I pretty sure I can use Jay's ROW #6 frog if I remove the material I mentioned, so I can use either 2-rail wheels or hi-rail wheels. Here's more photos:

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(hi-rail truck on the left, 2-rail truck on the right)

The points are riding higher than the thru rails (due to the rails bending/twisting mentioned above), but I think once I solder the throw bar to the points it should be alright.

[Robert]

Bob, I use a nice long Mil Bxxxxxd flat file to make my points. No heat generated and a better job in the end...as in a nice flat mating surface of the point rail. Not much use for a dremel except for dressing the blunt end of rails. I've built a few dozen turnouts so there is some practical experience at work here. Keep at it Bob...

Robert

[Erik C Lindgren]

I have really enjoyed this guys

Thank you

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Robert,

I've got tools everywhere! 3-4 files out on the table and the Dremel!

Erik, The turnout looks nice in the photos, but I've been cussing it the entire day

The track gauge is reading a bit tight about 1" from the tips of the points, but both 2-rail and 3-rail trucks go thru it fine. Any ideas?

Another question. On these one-piece point/closure rails, how far back from the frog do I spike, or do I spike it at all?

[Robert]

Robert,

The track gauge is reading a bit tight about 1" from the tips of the points, but both 2-rail and 3-rail trucks go thru it fine. Any ideas?

Another question. On these one-piece point/closure rails, how far back from the frog do I spike, or do I spike it at all?

I'd say if your trucks go thru fine then it's likely ok. Spike far enough to stabilize the frog and adjoining section of point rails, but check and be sure to allow for easy movement of the points when throwing a switch. Five or six ties or so from the frog should be about right. If you overdo this spiking you can always remove a few to gain movement.

Robert

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Thanks Robert, never occurred that I could always remove spikes that were interfering (forest/trees syndrome)

Think I'll give it a go tomorrow.

[Tom Dempsey]

In regards to getting a little tight but the trucks still flow through okay, keep in mind that the standard gauge is trying to keep you dead on preferred while the trucks are fine with +/- within spec.

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Good point Tom, I'll go with what I've done and see how the cars roll.

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Woke up fresh this morning and decided what I had wasn't so bad after all.

I silver-soldered the throw bar in place, while trying to keep everything in gauge. Here's some photos:

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I'll cut the excess off later

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Here's a 3-rail caboose on the turnout:

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2-rail truck (compliments of Martin B from a previous purchase - bulkhead flat):

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3-rail truck:

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I spiked the point/closure rails about 6 inches back from the pointy ends and it's easy to move into position, might keep adding spikes until I feel it's getting too stiff. I'll be using Caboose Industries ground throws.

I have to wait until the spike tool arrives, I went thru 6 spikes (numerous times) last night before I got one to go in without bending it.

Still have a bunch of spikes to put in, the guard rails, and the departure rails. The big test will be running an engine and a couple of cars thru it, soon I hope!

[Robert]

You'll like the spiking plier Bob, I wonder if those points in these photos might benefit from a bit more filing to thin them out a tad more. Hard to say with actually having them in front of me, but that was my first reaction. Overall a nice first effort I'd say...your happy about this aren't you ?

Good stuff!

Robert

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

You're probably right Robert, I haven't put a caliper on them but I will just to see how thick I've left them.

I'm not putting electrical gaps in this one, don't need them with BPRC which I plan on staying with for as long as I can.

I am pleased, although I wouldn't have given you 2 cents for it yesterday, spent too long working on it w/o a break. The next one WILL be easier

[Rufus T. Firefly]

The next one WILL be easier

The slope of the learning curve declines rapidly with repetition......

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

I thought it was more of a downward spiral

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Robert, query from the ignorant...but are you talking about filing on the backside or on the inside???

[Jay Criswell]

FWIW, I wouldn't recommend soldering your throw rods directly to the points. Works better if the can pivot.

Another item some folks do is to notch the rail (cut through part of the lower web) where you want the points to bend.

Jay