Car Thread

[sarge]

I've never been able to use one of those gauges while driving down the road - having a light go on that let's me I've picked up a nail or whatever and should probably go get the tire fixed before I get stuck somewhere "challenging" is something I've liked.

I detest the added complexity, however I understand the necessity.

In the old days it was pretty obvious when a tire was going down, but with the improvements in steering (both real ones in steering geometry and engineering, and horridly lazy ones in the requirement for power steering in everything with the loss of "feel" inherent) and suspension, it has become very difficult for most people to even be aware of a softening tyre until it is dead-flat. Recent success in sound-proofing don't help here, either (which is why emergency vehicles have trouble getting attention with siren alone anymore, BTW).

It's an unintended consequence of both much improved engineering and the successful quest for a vehicles that decouple "normal" people from the road so they are as comfy as if they were in their living room. Unfortunately, we all get stuck with what is designed for the pleasure of the lowest common denominator.

[E7]

As far as wiper blades, much seems to depend on where you drive. When I commuted to DC, wipers would last perhaps six months at most until they started turning to powder. Now that I stay away from the Big Smoke as a matter of fervently practiced religion, I get a couple years from blades.

You can extend the life of blades with a conservative wipe-down with glycerine from time to time, which I guess is coating the rubber and protecting it from the airborne pollutants that seem to be more prevalent in areas of higher population (hence vehicle) densities.

You've got me wondering if maybe the issue with the wipers isn't what you are describing and NOT quality.

I will say that I have never seen a set of wipers go so totally to Hades as these last ones, and I know without a doubt, that the problem wasn't caused by wear. I do believe you may have smacked the old nail right dead square on the head when you mentioned pollution. Brings to mind that old Joe South tune "Don't It Make You Want To Go Home".

[E7]

It's an unintended consequence of both much improved engineering and the successful quest for a vehicles that decouple "normal" people from the road so they are as comfy as if they were in their living room. Unfortunately, we all get stuck with what is designed for the pleasure of the lowest common denominator.

Amen to that. I think the ultimate goal (as in 1984) is for a vehicle where we stumble out to the driveway and crawl into it, pop in a destination, doze off, and the alarm wakes us when we get there. And yes, sadly, everything seems to be geared to the LCD.

[sarge]

Wiper blades: My experience says that has at least something to do with it. Flip 'em up periodically, wipe 'em down with just a little glycerine on a paper towel, leave 'em for a bit until they aren't wet anymore, and flip 'em back down.

You should see some added life as a result.

[healey36]

As far as wiper blades, much seems to depend on where you drive. When I commuted to DC, wipers would last perhaps six months at most until they started turning to powder. Now that I stay away from the Big Smoke as a matter of fervently practiced religion, I get a couple years from blades.

You can extend the life of blades with a conservative wipe-down with glycerine from time to time, which I guess is coating the rubber and protecting it from the airborne pollutants that seem to be more prevalent in areas of higher population (hence vehicle) densities.

You've got me wondering if maybe the issue with the wipers isn't what you are describing and NOT quality.

I will say that I have never seen a set of wipers go so totally to Hades as these last ones, and I know without a doubt, that the problem wasn't caused by wear. I do believe you may have smacked the old nail right dead square on the head when you mentioned pollution. Brings to mind that old Joe South tune "Don't It Make You Want To Go Home".

It's not pollution, it's climate-change, global-warming, you know... Good grief, don't you guys read the papers?

Healey

[healey36]

And with regards to tire-pressure sensors, what's the average battery-life for one? I've replaced two on the kid's 2008 VW...painful. And another thing, should you want to have two sets of tires/rims for your sensor-equipped vehicle, good luck tracking down a set of sensors with frequencies synchronized to the vehicle... The kid in Albany wanted a set of winter tires on separate rims he could swap on and off his 2014 Honda. Bought a set of tires/rims/sensors from Tire Rack as spec'd by Honda...no dice...the TP warning light comes on and stays on. Honda said the computer should recognize the new sensors and adjust...not happening.

Firestone hosed us with all of those SUV blow-out/roll-overs on under-inflated tracks back in the 90's...it's been hell to pay ever since.

Healey

[healey36]

Hey Sarge...any idea what the sealant was that the guy used on your cover? I managed to break the seam on the Z3's plastic rear window and I don't feel like dropping five hundred clams on a new top and install. There's a myriad of stuff out there, but most of it is aimed at fixing tears, not a beaded seam. If you know give me a heads up...thanks.

Healey

[robert.]

Hey Sarge...any idea what the sealant was that the guy used on your cover? I managed to break the seam on the Z3's plastic rear window and I don't feel like dropping five hundred clams on a new top and install. There's a myriad of stuff out there, but most of it is aimed at fixing tears, not a beaded seam. If you know give me a heads up...thanks.

Healey

your z3 should have a zipper in rear window. This is something you can fix at home. zipper out the old and zipper in the new. If you ripped the seam on the top take out the rear window and use a curved needle to sew a new seam. Do all this with a top that has been sitting in the sun. Here is a little tip for your seams.On a hot sunny day rub some canning wax along the threads. This helps keep the thread from dry rotting. a little something i got from my jeep wrangler days.

[healey36]

That's a good point Robert...it looks like the split is outside of the zipper, but I will have to climb in with a flashlight and look at it closer. If it's inside the zipper then presumably it can just be replaced.

[sarge]

If the seam is split, then take it to any of the boat cover and sail-maker guys on the bay. They can repair the base before stitching and stitch it up so it is actually a solid repair. The stuff we use is indeed for sealing, not filling or gluing.

[Big Jim]

Thanks for the Armor-All tip...Healey

Armor-All, Rain-X, and Fix-A-Flat are on my "Great Automotive Products" List.

Anyone have any others?

Armor-All will never touch another one of my cars. Cracked every dashboard it touched! Get that crap away from me.

[Mitch]

In-re the tire pressure sensors. They've been around for about 20 years now, but were forced upon the public by a Federal Mandate beginning 2008, all vehicles will be equipped with tire pressure sensors. I agree with Rufus, that they are quite convenient, and the premium systems that show precisely (I'll qualify that in a minute) which tire is low shows the driver precisely where to look. That said, when the tires are rotated, all that just went out the window. It may be showing the RF low, but is actually the LR 'cause the car cannot distinguish the position. When we program, we have a tool that reads the ID of each sensor, and then beginning with Sensor ?/Position 1, we enter that as LF. Position 2 is RF, 3 is RR, and 4 is LR. Some premium systems with a full size spare on a matching wheel also has a sensor in it. After programming, you're good 'til the first rotation, then you're still gonna have to get an look to see which tire it is. Every sensor, regardless the manufacturer, has an 8 digit ID #.
Wiper blades??? The factory ones that come on the car new will last up to 2 years 'less you beat the livin' hell out 'em with the ice scraper. Replacement blades, you're lucky to get 6 months out of them in good weather, but the Michelin blades are pretty good. But if you're using wipers on a muddy dirt or limestone road, or runnin' in the winter where they're using salt and cinders on the roads, that's hard on blades. BTW, be prepared to pay nearly $40 each for the factory blades. You can put 5 sets of Aamco blades on for that, but they're pretty much junk.
If you don't want to remove a wheel from your lawn tractor to pump up a tire, get a portable air tank. They're relatively cheap, about $40, lightweight, and hold about 125psi before the pop off lets go. They come complete with a hose and tire valve. Simply walk out to your machine and blow the tire back up. I put tubes in the front tires on my Cadet. Broke them down and couldn't find a thing in them. Turned out to be the sidewalls leakin' through. No more! I ain't springin' for two new tires.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

In-re the tire pressure sensors. They've been around for about 20 years now, but were forced upon the public by a Federal Mandate beginning 2008, all vehicles will be equipped with tire pressure sensors. I agree with Rufus, that they are quite convenient, and the premium systems that show precisely (I'll qualify that in a minute) which tire is low shows the driver precisely where to look. That said, when the tires are rotated, all that just went out the window. It may be showing the RF low, but is actually the LR 'cause the car cannot distinguish the position. When we program, we have a tool that reads the ID of each sensor, and then beginning with Sensor ?/Position 1, we enter that as LF. Position 2 is RF, 3 is RR, and 4 is LR. Some premium systems with a full size spare on a matching wheel also has a sensor in it. After programming, you're good 'til the first rotation, then you're still gonna have to get an look to see which tire it is. Every sensor, regardless the manufacturer, has an 8 digit ID #.

Mine just alerts that one is low and that's when the old hand-held gauge in the car become useful. Stop, ID which tire, if it really is dropping, then head over to a repair shop...... Beats getting to the office and after a day a work coming out to the parking lot to have to change a tire.

Wiper blades??? The factory ones that come on the car new will last up to 2 years 'less you beat the livin' hell out 'em with the ice scraper. Replacement blades, you're lucky to get 6 months out of them in good weather, but the Michelin blades are pretty good. But if you're using wipers on a muddy dirt or limestone road, or runnin' in the winter where they're using salt and cinders on the roads, that's hard on blades. BTW, be prepared to pay nearly $40 each for the factory blades. You can put 5 sets of Aamco blades on for that, but they're pretty much junk.

Maybe keeping the cars in the garage saves them - mine have lasted a lot longer than 2 years....

If you don't want to remove a wheel from your lawn tractor to pump up a tire, get a portable air tank. They're relatively cheap, about $40, lightweight, and hold about 125psi before the pop off lets go. They come complete with a hose and tire valve. Simply walk out to your machine and blow the tire back up. I put tubes in the front tires on my Cadet. Broke them down and couldn't find a thing in them. Turned out to be the sidewalls leakin' through. No more! I ain't springin' for two new tires.

Useful to have - portable tank. I should get one when I'm feeling opportunistic. Yes, tubes. Both of my prior lawn tractors were switched over to tubes.

[robert.]

I remember the first wheel i saw with a pressure gauge in it. Being the first it had the same outcome as most first. A side from the 2 guys watching over me.A guy come to the shop with a corvette. He is wanting a pair of snow tires. They guy was so much of a dolt that he needed to drive his vet in the winter. I can still see him in my mind today. He was dressed like a rhinestone cowboy. It's winter time and the fat puke has a shirt that is only half buttoned on. He has dark shades on and is chewing a toothpick. Right at that moment i became a Mustang fan. With most cars like vets we would use the owner car jack. Our clunky floor model would never fit under the car.Plus this way you get one wheel off at a time. No chance to screw up the directional wheels. I get one wheel off throw it up on the tire changer. When i try to brake the bead the machine goes half way and stops. Ok stiff sidewalls. Rotate the wheel 90% and try again.Same thing.One more rotate and try again. Bead brakes and were in business. With the bead broke i start to dismount the tire.Everything is fine the first bead is up off the rim. So i jam the bar down for the second bead and go for full tire removal. A few funny noises later i have a 18 inch hose clamp with a 3 inch square plastic box in my hand. Wtf. is this thing. Mr.rhinestone cowboy " So that's how my ex wife is tracking me" Not until i broke the second one did we notice they were tire sensors.

[Mitch]

Robert, that is the Ford style today. I've had Chrysler cars in that did not have a tire light on, but it would look like one wheel has a regular valve core in it, as opposed the aluminum valve of a tire sensor, and I'm wonderin' why the tire light ain't on. Turns out it does have a regular valve stem, and the original sensor, (with the stem broken off as is common) is fastened inside the wheel with a Ford 17" hose clamp!