What's New on the PRR Panhandle 2.0?

[Rufus T. Firefly]

First thing I need to do is scrape the residue off the wooden arch.

Brass wire wheel?

[chuck]

Yuch! Depending on the residue brass brush may be best bet. Possibly a hair dryer and scraper. Maybe alcohol, SprayWay foaming glass cleaner MIGHT work. Be careful as it will strip any acrylic paint.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Yuch! Depending on the residue brass brush may be best bet.

I like using waht look like brass tooth brushes for cleaning "delicate" surfaces. Better control. Also might find that paper towels and lacquer thinner might work well if you have good ventilation.

[G3750]

Updated 2/14/2020:

I am mad as hell about this Chooch junk.

I got most of the glue residue off the sides of the stone arch. The underside (inside the arch) is another matter. I tried using acetone. I scrubbed it. I picked at it. I tried GooGone. I tried Goof-Off. And I tried a wire brush. It's very slow going.

I fired up the Evans Design Brickyard program and printed some stone paper. I have glued the stone paper onto some thin styrene sheet. I will see how durable that is. Appearance (so far) seems fine.

I have some DAP Weldwood (non-flammable) Contact Cement on order. Should arrive tomorrow. If the Elmer's doesn't keep the paper stuck to the styrene, we'll try the contact cement. If it does hold, we'll take the next step, gluing the styrene to the wood sides of the arch. That will be done with either E-6000 or (more likely) the contact cement.

George

[G3750]

Updated 2/15/2020:

Elmer's Glue-All for paper to styrene: Epic fail.

Next up: DAP Weldwood contact cement.

George

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Updated 2/15/2020:

Elmer's Glue-All for paper to styrene: Epic fail.

Not a surprise.

Next up: DAP Weldwood contact cement.

Should work - some form of a contact cement/glue would be my choice when you get to mixed media.

[healey36]

Downside of contact cement is lack of repositioning capability, i.e. you can't slide it around once you mate the two surfaces. You gotta make sure you apply it exactly in position. When I use Weldwood, I usually cut to leave a bit of overlap and then trim afterwards, making exact positioning irrelevant.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Downside of contact cement is lack of repositioning capability, i.e. you can't slide it around once you mate the two surfaces. You gotta make sure you apply it exactly in position. When I use Weldwood, I usually cut to leave a bit of overlap and then trim afterwards, making exact positioning irrelevant.

Yup. That should be obvious, but maybe not - got to get it right the 1st time - unforgiving stuff.

[chuck]

Freezer paper is pretty good about resisting the tackiness of the contact cement so long as you don't push down too hard. You can take two sheets of butcher paper back to back or fold one sheet in half with shiny sides out. This can be used as a slip sheet to align the stuff you are trying to glue together. As you get parts aligned start sliding the slip sheet while pressing the objects together. I would still recommend over size cutting on the material and then do final trim after pieces are mated.

BTW, on the glue removal on the underside of the arch. Try using a fine grain larger diameter sanding drum for the dremel. Use a speed control setting that melts the glue and does minimal damage to the wood. Get a bag of cheap drums and replace them as the clog up with the adhesive. Maybe Harbor Freight as these are just sacrificial glue removal "sponges".

[G3750]

Downside of contact cement is lack of repositioning capability, i.e. you can't slide it around once you mate the two surfaces. You gotta make sure you apply it exactly in position. When I use Weldwood, I usually cut to leave a bit of overlap and then trim afterwards, making exact positioning irrelevant.

Excellent advice - from you, Chuck, and Rufus. Thanks!

I found a way to make the Evans Design software and my Brother printer print on 11"x17" (ledger) size paper. Happily that means I don't have to try fitting 2 pieces of paper to the side (styrene sheet backing) of the arch. We'll try using the contact cement in the next day or so.

In the meantime, I've painted the shoreline in the first 12 test ponds. So progress on that front as well.

George

[rogruth]

What about mounting the surface paper on a material that might be easier to glue it to and then mount that on the arch?
Maybe that is what you are saying.

[G3750]

What about mounting the surface paper on a material that might be easier to glue it to and then mount that on the arch?
Maybe that is what you are saying.

Hi Roger. Yes, that is what I'm saying. I am going to try mounting the paper onto thin sheet styrene (0.015") using the contact cement. Once that's done, I will try attaching the styrene to the wooden surface of the arch using the contact cement.

George

[Rufus T. Firefly]

What about mounting the surface paper on a material that might be easier to glue it to and then mount that on the arch?
Maybe that is what you are saying.

Hi Roger. Yes, that is what I'm saying. I am going to try mounting the paper onto thin sheet styrene (0.015") using the contact cement. Once that's done, I will try attaching the styrene to the wooden surface of the arch using the contact cement.

Confused - why the 2-step process? Why not directly to the wood?

[chuck]

I'm just guessing but he could use the styrene to make a template to cut the paper. It is probably easier to line up the brickwork on the styrene and the styrene is stiffer than the paper and easier to align to the wood. The styrene may also hide/disguise any residual glue or damage to the wood from removing the old glue. Just guessing.

BTW, I had a chance to talk to a professional model maker and she agreed that the glue on the back of the vinyl stone work is pretty lame and strongly suggested removal before attempting to use, especially on wood.

[G3750]

I'm just guessing but he could use the styrene to make a template to cut the paper. It is probably easier to line up the brickwork on the styrene and the styrene is stiffer than the paper and easier to align to the wood. The styrene may also hide/disguise any residual glue or damage to the wood from removing the old glue. Just guessing.

BTW, I had a chance to talk to a professional model maker and she agreed that the glue on the back of the vinyl stone work is pretty lame and strongly suggested removal before attempting to use, especially on wood.

I am thinking that gluing the paper to the styrene and then gluing the styrene to the wood is the way to go.

I will look into sanding the arch interior with a dremel tool.