What's New on the PRR Panhandle 2.0?

[G3750]

ay caramba...back to the bridge we go, lol.

Paul, it's not the end of the world. I'm on the clock to get the layout done enough to be viewed by May 31. Right now, I'm focusing on the scenery in the section just east of the bridge (on the WV side). I should have that scenery done in the next 2 weeks. The pier is supposed to be done by mid-February. Painting and weathering the pier should take another week. Once I've installed it, I can finish the WV shoreline. It's all do-able by end of March.

George

[healey36]

No worries, George. I can't tell you how many times back in the day I tore out a bridge because I was unhappy with the piers or abutments (or the way the "water" lapped against them), and most of that was back when I was frittering about with N-gauge. Are you getting the replacement from the same source as your original set? Sounds like it.

Paul

[G3750]

No worries, George. I can't tell you how many times back in the day I tore out a bridge because I was unhappy with the piers or abutments (or the way the "water" lapped against them), and most of that was back when I was frittering about with N-gauge. Are you getting the replacement from the same source as your original set? Sounds like it.
Paul

Yes, we’re in the process of finalizing the design. Unfortunately, I don’t have a straight on photo of it. But it does appear to have an ever so slight taper (much less than the others). We’re trying to decide how much that really is.
George

[G3750]

Updated 2/7/2020:

Two steps back.

The Chooch stone (self-stick + aided with E-6000) is peeling away. It looks terrible. I pulled off the stone and will replace it with the stone paper (from the Evans Design program Brickyard). I am now in the process of scraping off the residual self-stick adhesive and E-6000.

I've also decided to re-do the river bottom coloring experiment. This is based on input I received from the scenery class I'm taking.

Some times you get the elevator...

George

[Rufus T. Firefly]

The Chooch stone (self-stick + aided with E-6000) is peeling away.

Wow..... Frustrating. That adhesive was touted to be very good stuff. File that info fof future reference.

[robert.]

Try to iron it back on.

[chuck]

Looking at the reviews, E6000 is USUALLY a highly rated bonding compound. I wonder if the solvent/carrier in the glue attacked the self adhesive compound Chooch uses on their self stick material?

Combining adhesives is tricky. In fact it usually doesn't work. I am guessing the stone material is vinyl? Vinyl does not bond well to raw wood. It needs to be super smooth/sealed. Preferred method is to use contact cement over the sealed wood. The contact cement bonds to both items and then sticks to itself when the two sides are brought together. This process is much easier with totally flat surfaces where you can use silicone slip sheets or battens to keep surfaces separated while you align them. Very difficult on curves/irregular surfaces.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Preferred method is to use contact cement over the sealed wood.

Yes.

[rogruth]

Preferred method is to use contact cement over the sealed wood.

Yes.

With what is the wood sealed?

[chuck]

Coating, aka a paint or paint like substance. Something that won't interact with the solvents in the glue and peel off. Recommended stuff was a water soluble contact cement like they use for high pressure laminate (aka "Formica").

Part of the problem is we read the product description that states this will glue a, b, c, d, .... and we infer that the stuff will glue any of those things to any of the others. What they are really stating is a to a, b to b, etc. It MAY glue a to c and b to d but maybe not a to d.

[G3750]

Thanks for the input, guys.

At this point, I'm thinking that I will scrape all the residue off the wood and the back of the Chooch vinyl stone. Options are:

1) Try gluing the vinyl onto a flat piece of styrene using Bob Smith's Insta-flex CA. Then gluing the styrene back onto the wood.

2) Gluing the stone paper from the Evans Design program onto the wood. That seems to have held elsewhere.

I guess I could try the contact cement approach. What brand do you suggest?

Thanks,

George

[chuck]

Weldwood non flamible is available in quart size. You may need to use two coats on wood side to ensure even coverage. Apply one coat to wood side, let dry, apply second coat to wood side and back of vinyl then mate when these coats are dry.

[G3750]

Chuck,

Is this what you're talking about?

https://www.acehardware.com/departments ... lsrc=aw.ds

George

[chuck]

Yep. Works great on formica. Allegedly it sticks to vinyl. Signage guys admonish anyone to NOT try to attach vinyl signs to wood backing, metal or poly. If you have to use wood, use this stuff.

[G3750]

Yep. Works great on formica. Allegedly it sticks to vinyl. Signage guys admonish anyone to NOT try to attach vinyl signs to wood backing, metal or poly. If you have to use wood, use this stuff.

Thanks Chuck. I'm still pondering this and the other options. First thing I need to do is scrape the residue off the wooden arch. Ugh.

In other news:

I am going to use a molded flexible rock face for the ravine behind the arch (up against the backdrop). After considering some of the options shown in the scenery course I just completed, I believe this to be the most cost effective and best looking option. Time is not on my side and I think the Flexrock MM-502 in gray will look fine. A line of trees will go above it to blend in with the backdrop. Below it will be a slope of alluvial soil comprising the bank of a stream flowing into the Ohio River. The stream will be a bit small, but modeler's license allows me to call it Harmon Creek.

https://www.google.com/search?q=flexroc ... 36&bih=723


George