Jon........................ did you git a call at noon yesterday
No!!! What did I miss?!!!!
Hobo Jungle
Wow is right. Wonderful work, Andre.
What Mitch wrote in my PM was so informative I am placing it here:
"Well, Tramp, here's the long and the short of it.
1. When you remove the cover of the master cylinder, is it a single large chamber or does it have 2 chambers? If single chambered, that means all 4 wheels feed at the same time. If dual chambered, (small in front, large in rear), then it is a split system. The small chamber in front is actually the rear brakes, and the larger chamber in the rear is the front brakes. Which one is empty? If the front one is empty, then we know the leak is somewhere in the rear brake system. Rear one empty, the leak is in the front brake system. Diagonally split brake systems didn't show up 'til the '80s.
2. If you have a single master cylinder chamber, then the leak could be anywhere. A single cylinder master cylinder will have only 1 line (usually has a couple coils in it), that comes off and goes to a brass splitter block. 3 lines will come from the splitter. 1 short line going to left front, 1 long line going to right front, and 1 long line going to the rear. The line going to the rear will usually end at a crossmember, or even mounted directly to the left frame rail. From there, it will have a rubber brake hose that will reach down to a splitter block on the differential housing or somewhere on the rear axle. From that splitter, 1 line to the left rear wheel cylinder, 1 line to the right rear cylinder. That line could be rusted away anywhere along its' length along the left frame rail, behind a shock mount, or behind the gas tank. The lines on the rear end housing are easier to see, and they could have a rust hole in them also.
Back up to the front, the line to the right front wheel could have 3 directions of travel. It could leave the splitter and be fastened to the firewall, curve up and over the tranny tunnel, and back around to a bracket on the frame side by the upper control arm. Or, it could go across the front crossmember either in the front or back, or it could go all the way to the front yoke and around to the right frame rail. The bracket holds the hose to the right front wheel cylinder or caliper, if you have front discs. Generally, these rust away pretty close to the hose bracket. Left side pretty much the same, only that line is very short, sometimes only 8" to 12" long. If the line is on the crossmember, sometimes leaking oil and grease buildup can hide the leak.
Of course, any of the 3 hoses could be blown out, but with that big of a leak, the pedal would go right to the floor probably on the first pump.
Andres' suggestion to look for a telltale fluid streak going down between the master cylinder and the brake booster is a good one. Of course, if the Chevy don't have power brakes, as many didn't until the very late sixties, that point would be moot. A leak in the master cylinder itself would manifest itself as a slowly dropping pedal while you're already stopped, and then you'd leave off and get another bite and it would hold mometarily. A blown line or hose will have a dropping pedal under both conditions.
Get 'er up on jack stands, fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, and get somebody to pump the brakes and you go lookin' with a flash light for the telltale squirt. Let's face it, pal, the old girl's 41 years old. It certainly wouldn't hurt to rebuild the entire brake system, and probably not that expensive either. If you're in over your head on making up and flaring new steel lines, then have it done at a reputable shop.
The 2 systems on the car that can kill you, (and possibly someone else), are the brake system and the exhaust system. I don't care if the transmission falls out and skids across the road, I want to get the damned thing stopped."
Now to clear up a few things. My '66 does have a dual-chamber master cylinder, but I installed it. Both chambers are the same size and only the rear one which feeds the rear drums is leaking. It only loses about half a chamber in two or three weeks. The car does have vacuum assisted brakes. Why the hell do they fashion brake lines out of a corrosive material?
What Mitch wrote in my PM was so informative I am placing it here:
"Well, Tramp, here's the long and the short of it.
1. When you remove the cover of the master cylinder, is it a single large chamber or does it have 2 chambers? If single chambered, that means all 4 wheels feed at the same time. If dual chambered, (small in front, large in rear), then it is a split system. The small chamber in front is actually the rear brakes, and the larger chamber in the rear is the front brakes. Which one is empty? If the front one is empty, then we know the leak is somewhere in the rear brake system. Rear one empty, the leak is in the front brake system. Diagonally split brake systems didn't show up 'til the '80s.
2. If you have a single master cylinder chamber, then the leak could be anywhere. A single cylinder master cylinder will have only 1 line (usually has a couple coils in it), that comes off and goes to a brass splitter block. 3 lines will come from the splitter. 1 short line going to left front, 1 long line going to right front, and 1 long line going to the rear. The line going to the rear will usually end at a crossmember, or even mounted directly to the left frame rail. From there, it will have a rubber brake hose that will reach down to a splitter block on the differential housing or somewhere on the rear axle. From that splitter, 1 line to the left rear wheel cylinder, 1 line to the right rear cylinder. That line could be rusted away anywhere along its' length along the left frame rail, behind a shock mount, or behind the gas tank. The lines on the rear end housing are easier to see, and they could have a rust hole in them also.
Back up to the front, the line to the right front wheel could have 3 directions of travel. It could leave the splitter and be fastened to the firewall, curve up and over the tranny tunnel, and back around to a bracket on the frame side by the upper control arm. Or, it could go across the front crossmember either in the front or back, or it could go all the way to the front yoke and around to the right frame rail. The bracket holds the hose to the right front wheel cylinder or caliper, if you have front discs. Generally, these rust away pretty close to the hose bracket. Left side pretty much the same, only that line is very short, sometimes only 8" to 12" long. If the line is on the crossmember, sometimes leaking oil and grease buildup can hide the leak.
Of course, any of the 3 hoses could be blown out, but with that big of a leak, the pedal would go right to the floor probably on the first pump.
Andres' suggestion to look for a telltale fluid streak going down between the master cylinder and the brake booster is a good one. Of course, if the Chevy don't have power brakes, as many didn't until the very late sixties, that point would be moot. A leak in the master cylinder itself would manifest itself as a slowly dropping pedal while you're already stopped, and then you'd leave off and get another bite and it would hold mometarily. A blown line or hose will have a dropping pedal under both conditions.
Get 'er up on jack stands, fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, and get somebody to pump the brakes and you go lookin' with a flash light for the telltale squirt. Let's face it, pal, the old girl's 41 years old. It certainly wouldn't hurt to rebuild the entire brake system, and probably not that expensive either. If you're in over your head on making up and flaring new steel lines, then have it done at a reputable shop.
The 2 systems on the car that can kill you, (and possibly someone else), are the brake system and the exhaust system. I don't care if the transmission falls out and skids across the road, I want to get the damned thing stopped."
Now to clear up a few things. My '66 does have a dual-chamber master cylinder, but I installed it. Both chambers are the same size and only the rear one which feeds the rear drums is leaking. It only loses about half a chamber in two or three weeks. The car does have vacuum assisted brakes. Why the hell do they fashion brake lines out of a corrosive material?
That a life will be spent gaining inches,
When this distance is read in miles.
When this distance is read in miles.
I've said for 20 years that if government wants to be constantly involved in the production of automobiles, then they should mandate that all brakes lines be made of stainless steel. Gov. mandates are not new to the auto industry. They require airbags, all of the emission controls, believe it or not, ya know why a new car don't have that new car smell anymore? Government. No more formaldehyde in the upholstery, which is why you get fewer choices in the colors of the interior trim. All our new Chrysler products have powder coated brake lines on them now. But the aftermarket makers do have stainless steel brake lines and fuel lines available for many older cars and trucks. The CJ5 project sitting in my basement is now equipped with stainless steel brake lines, (bought pre-bent and stainless wire wrapped), stainless fuel lines, stainless 22 gallon fuel cell, and stainless fuel tank skid shield.
Try Summit Racing, or a resto company like the PADDOCK.
Tramp, if you installed the dual master cylinder, then you should have 2 coil wound lines going to a 5 way splitter. The line from the front of the master cylinder is for the rear brakes. Rear brakes always come on first, just a little ahead of the front brakes. However, the pressure to the rear is always a little less than front pressure. This is accomplished either through the compensating ports in the master, or by using a 1/4" line going to the rear, whereby the front brakes would have a 3/16" line. The 5 way splitter would have the 2 lines from the master usually coming in on the top, (however, some manufacturers run them in each end. The other 3 lines are as described previously, however, in the five way, there is a small piston that can move to either side in case of a hydraulic failure. If you should hit the brakes and a rear line would blow out, for example, the piston would be moved by the pressure going to the good lines, and the piston would seal off the port to the rear lines. Moisture is attracted to brake fluid, and you could have some crud build up in there, and when you make a repair, you have a hell of a time getting equal pressure to move the piston back to it's intended position. I just recently had a '98 Ram that I had to remove the piston cap, and physically move the piston with a pick to get brake pressure to the rear axle.
Try Summit Racing, or a resto company like the PADDOCK.
Tramp, if you installed the dual master cylinder, then you should have 2 coil wound lines going to a 5 way splitter. The line from the front of the master cylinder is for the rear brakes. Rear brakes always come on first, just a little ahead of the front brakes. However, the pressure to the rear is always a little less than front pressure. This is accomplished either through the compensating ports in the master, or by using a 1/4" line going to the rear, whereby the front brakes would have a 3/16" line. The 5 way splitter would have the 2 lines from the master usually coming in on the top, (however, some manufacturers run them in each end. The other 3 lines are as described previously, however, in the five way, there is a small piston that can move to either side in case of a hydraulic failure. If you should hit the brakes and a rear line would blow out, for example, the piston would be moved by the pressure going to the good lines, and the piston would seal off the port to the rear lines. Moisture is attracted to brake fluid, and you could have some crud build up in there, and when you make a repair, you have a hell of a time getting equal pressure to move the piston back to it's intended position. I just recently had a '98 Ram that I had to remove the piston cap, and physically move the piston with a pick to get brake pressure to the rear axle.
If you agree with the Progressives, it's freedom of speech. If you disagree, it's hate speech. There are no alternatives.
Mitch, sadly, my rear master cylinder chamber runs my rear brakes. Is this an issue? I thought Chevy did them this way and Ford the other. True?
A new problem. Just took a long test drive and found both my rear wheels warm on return. What's that mean? The fronts were cool to the touch. Are the new pad linings seating themselves?
A new problem. Just took a long test drive and found both my rear wheels warm on return. What's that mean? The fronts were cool to the touch. Are the new pad linings seating themselves?
That a life will be spent gaining inches,
When this distance is read in miles.
When this distance is read in miles.
Yeah, San, and we haven't even touched on ABS, 4 wheel antilock, rear wheel antilock, Delco Morraine, TEVES mark 20, with traction control, TEVES mark 25 e, and mark 25 i, the newest in traction control, and the newest Electronic Stability Systems. 
However, when somebody offers to buy, I never pass it up. Thanks.
However, when somebody offers to buy, I never pass it up. Thanks.
If you agree with the Progressives, it's freedom of speech. If you disagree, it's hate speech. There are no alternatives.
Drums hold more heat than disc calipers and rotors, as the brakes are fully enclosed and not exposed to the air. Being a little warm is normal, but if they're really hot, either the brakes are adjusted too tight, or possibly dragging due to weak pull back springs. The best way to adjust rear brakes, and especially important for new brakes, is to adjust them up until you hear the drum ticking the brakes when you spin it in both directions. Give it a good spin forward and yank the parking brake cable, then a good spin backwards and yank it again. This helps to center the shoes in the drums. Then adjust again until you hear the ticking when you spin it, and you should be good to go.
If you agree with the Progressives, it's freedom of speech. If you disagree, it's hate speech. There are no alternatives.
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