C&NW and Erie Steam Power

[bob turner]

I have been worrying about the cab for a week or so - now I think I see - I just need to bring the roof down a bit. Juxtaposing them like this (only possible here, due to my lack of photo processing software) makes it easy to see errors.

One easily fixed error is the height of the coal bunker, which gets fixed right after the cab roof and running boards. If you see anything else obvious (other than the sand dome, which we are working on) let me know?

[SWrailroader]

Looks excellent. Big improvement at the firebox and boiler transition when compared to the previous photo. Makes me want to retire early to tackle such projects.

Sadly I have made no progress on the ATSF 1200 class other study how much of the steam saddle I need to file off.

[bob turner]

I guess there are no helpful opinions out there. I cut the top of the coal bunker last night, and in about ten minutes will start to lower the cab roof.

From my photos on the bottom of page 1 I assumed the cab side was longer than it was high - but closer study revealed a grey something blending in with the cab rear wall, making the cab look wider.

A small problem area will be the longer Commonwealth tender trucks. PSC may have had them, but I am thinking of making a one piece master and having them cast. At one point you could not beat PSC for tender trucks.

Edit: Done. Made a difference. My current project is magnetos and spark plug harnesses, so this was a nice break.

[up148]

What torch do you use to attach the bands and solder the boiler? Great work by the way.

I just finally attached a group of air & steam lines the broke off the Challenger when I took it apart.......and once again I think good soldering is not nearly as easy as it's made to look in videos. I prefer my resistance soldering set to my Weller soldering station, in fact I found the Weller almost useless trying to solder small brackets and piping to larger brass details. Getting the large items hot enough to melt the solder without roasting the lighter details is tough.

[bob turner]

I mostly use a Weller 80 Watt iron.

But surprisingly, for very small attachments I use a torch - a simple pencil tip on a propane or mapp bottle.

Boiler bands, cab and tender sides - the iron does it better, and without distortion. And don't forget, my boilers are typically .040 or better in thickness, so a boiler band on an .032 Sunset or .020 PSC boiler would be child's play for the Weller. Encapsulate the band. Then scrape and sand.

But picture this: a tender handrail of .032 brass rod is delicate, and can ot withstand even a hint of torch heat. So I insert it, flux the joint, put a very small chip of flattened 60-40 solder at the junction, and with a small flame, heat only the sheet metal near the joint.

Zip! The solder leaps into a perfect cone around the joint and the torch is pulled away. Same for washouts, lag clamps, check valves, boiler steps . . .

Hope this helps.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

But picture this: a tender handrail of .032 brass rod is delicate, and can ot withstand even a hint of torch heat.

I routinely use a little pencil torch for 0.032" and smaller brass wire. Good flux and very fine solder...

[up148]

I'm going to be removing sand hatches, stack and other details from a KTM boiler. I have a Smith Mini Torch put away somewhere and need to find it. But, would this be the weapon of choices for dismantling if used cautiously or stick with a soldering iron?

Doing some searches there is some real trash out there being sold. It seems even the newer Weller 80w irons are not as good as they once were. Most likely made it China.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

I'm going to be removing sand hatches, stack and other details from a KTM boiler. I have a Smith Mini Torch put away somewhere and need to find it. But, would this be the weapon of choices for dismantling if used cautiously or stick with a soldering iron?

I'd think that applying just enough heat to pop the solder joint on the detail part would be preferable. I seem to have good luck with the little pencil torch I have while pulling a bit with the hemostat on the part to remove parts from brass cars w/o disassembling the rest of the car, .

[SWrailroader]

Bob,
Thank you for sharing your soldering techniques. It is useful info!

I know that you are aware of this, but photos can have significant distortions. I find that I need to rely on many, many photos to obtain a good assessment. This opinion is coming from someone who has spent many hours in the dark room. Drawings can be problematic too. I have heard that several drawings in the Model Railroader of steam locos are inaccurate to certain degree.

Rob

[bob turner]

You probably heard it from me - you really cannot depend even on the Cyclopediae drawings. I am reminded of my Baldwin 60000, for which there are no drawings. I missed the "wagon top" aspect of the boiler taper, and made it conical.

The Erie is now raised 1/8". Made a significant difference.

On the Weller 80- Watt - Mine says I got it in 2019, and it had a seven year guarantee! The tip just now lost its factory tin, and has to be filed and tinned every fourth use.

One of the things you can do to prolong the Weller life is to keep the screw that holds the tip from seizing. About once every six months just loosen and tighten, and at seven years you can replace the tip with a factory-tinned tip.

[bob turner]

I added an update to the last post of page 1. I can see that the last handrail post needs adjustment (easy) and the cab still needs a minor overhang adjustment, but note the difference the cab roof makes, and the raised boiler - and re-contoured tender.

Also of note: Southwest sent me a Kadee 0-80 tap. It is a plug tap, but it starts fairly easily and cuts accurate threads. It does not say "brand" but it is a lot better than the last tap I bought from Microfasteners. Always look for two-flute, spiral ground. Made in USA helps as well - we still know how to do some stuff better.

Next update will be with tanks, appurtenances, dummy driver springs (to fill that gap) and maybe a few pipes. Don't hold your breath for main rods and valve gear - I am good at that, but it gets repetitive, and I like new projects.

[SWrailroader]

Bob,
Looks like definite progress. Studied the photos and originally thought the latest version sits a bit high but then saw that the firebox grate also sits fairly high in the B/W photo. Will be looking to future progress.
Rob

[up148]

Wow! You do beautiful solder work Bob. I can only hope and dream that one day I'll be half as good.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Looks to be taking good shape,

[bob turner]

I just put a temporary set of crossheads, mains, and eccentric rods in - they need adjustment. Plan is to make two air tanks, maybe a headlight and pilot beam air pumps, take a photo, and table this thing.

Next project will be the flanges on an SP Mountain and my promised tutorial on soldering sand-cast Diesels. I seem to be very busy at the airport, so all of this will take time.

I am blown away with the beautiful scenery on these DFW layouts, including the Fort Worth gang, and Maroon & Co. as shown in his SP video. I note that I could assemble a tank car train with as many as 35 tanks (a lot of them Lobaugh, and easily six red Mobilgas) but my 74" radius curve with only six foot straight sections probably wouldn't handle them. I would need helper engines, since maybe eight are heavy Scale Craft.

I did have scenery at one point, but somehow the youthful experience as a landscaper has soured me on yardwork and excavation.