Paint Shop

[Rufus T. Firefly]

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[up148]

So, do most modelers here cut the glass or acetate to fit the window opening flush or attach the window just inside so it looks recessed?

BH

[bob turner]

Inside. I'd rather fly . . .

[up148]

Me too, but, I didn't know what was most common.

My point being, I learned a new way of adhering windows to the inside of models. "3M #463 2 mil High Tack Adhesive Transfer Tape". No more gluing that might cause discoloration or fogging of the edges of the window material. One roll will last more than a lifetime. Very expensive in carton lots, which is the only way most suppliers sell it, but I found a roll on EB for $15 from a broken carton. Cut to size, stick on window surround and peel off the protective outer layer and then apply your window.

BH

[Rufus T. Firefly]

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[up148]

So, do most modelers here cut the glass or acetate to fit the window opening flush or attach the window just inside so it looks recessed?

If I'm trying hard on a model, I'm using glass cut to fit from the inside - strangely enough, glass looks like glass and does not fog or whatever with glues.

Otherwise, I'm using either acetate or carbonate from the inside.

I have slides and cutter purchased from Bob Anson, but have yet to try it out. I will do so on my SP caboose.

The only model I own (IIRC) with slide glass cut to fit flush is the KTM/USA FEF-3 and one of the panes is missing. I figure that has to be a bugger to replace.

BH

[sarge]

Unless its just not accessable, I laminate from the inside since the frame you usually see on a brass model is just the outside part of the real thing. Hence, the glass viewed behind is appropriate.

Thick whitemetal castings might take a different approach, as might injection moulded styrene or poured resin. A small pane can be flush-glased by a little PVA or Elmers White brushed around the inside, then pulled as a bubble across the opening. Once dry, gloss clear carefully applied to the dry bubble with a soft 1/4" sable and a reasonably robust and quite clear flush pane results. If the pane is too big for the bubble trick, then a shaved piece of clear styrene set with watch-crystal cement is the direction I go. A wee dram before beginning helps with the latter.

For regular "inside" glasing, I usually use either cover slips cut with a diamond scribe, acetate cut with good scissors, or clear styrene scribed and snapped, then a double-naught brush with white Elmers or PVA carefully around the perimeter. The glue leaches under by capillary action and the result is quite resistant to the Fat Thumb of the Visitor with no clouding or crazing risk. Watch crystal cement is good, too, for all the same reasons.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

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[sarge]

That'd be the N5 glased and done:

n5_6.jpg

n5_7.jpg

On to the baywindow car.

[up148]

Nice!

BH

[Robert]

Oh it's excellent Sarge...the subtle weathering adds a lot of appeal too. Nice job!

Robert

[sarge]

Thanks for the kind words. Here is the baywindow car ready for service...

baywindow_3.jpg

baywindow_4.jpg

Don't know what the next US outline project will be, though I did get a box from Pat Mucci with an F7b kit in it. Sounds like a great mismatch for something...

Grin!

[sarge]

And it wasn't the F7b I got from Pat, nor was it after getting back to some of my usual projects.

It's Ruf's fault, for he had some derelict early Weaver locos and I had parts to convert them from 3-rail, put geared down drives in 'em, and fix the various broken bits, although I still need to scare up a couple horns. Some clean-up and into the paint booth, Microscale lettering, the usual clearcoats and weather and we have:

rsfa.jpg

The RS3 number is significant. In its later guise as PC 5243, it was the first locomotive I ever ran. So, now its time to take a break from Paint Shop for a while. Anyone else building anything?

Grin!

[Rufus T. Firefly]

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[sarge]

These were lots of fun, so if fun is your fault, so be it. Grin!

The old chaindrive plastic Weaver locos are good material to work with. Got some little foibles but they were something we were fortunate to see, really.