1/48 scale fuel truck

[rogruth]

Chuck,
What tool did you use to cut the truck body?
I think you said it was made from some heavy material. ??

[rex desilets]

Chassis cut down and tank removed. I need to make up some bridging material (maybe a couple of nails sans heads) to reattach the front and back chassis halves and then re-enforce with epoxy. I'll see if I have a Stanley mending plate that is narrow enough to fit between the main chassis rails.



The egg will be the "mixer" and I will have to use sheet styrene and spares box parts for rest of back end. I have a backhoe and a bunch of Woodland scenics construction workers to make up a work site,

You might try ebay for a Tootsietoy cement truck and spare yourself the effort of converting an egg......https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tootsietoy-cem ... SwcYVdqY-R

[chuck]

Thanks. I'll stick with the egg. Here is a link to some images of the vintage AMT kit

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/129143-125-amt-kenworthchallenge-transit-mixer/

I have some 1/144 scale rocket model parts that I may be able to adapt for "flattening" the bottom and possibly conization of the discharge end. The egg will just be the supporting frame/guide.

[chuck]

Parts that I hope to "modify" to make the mixer "drum". The egg is about 1-2 scale feet too wide and will be used as a template.



These are components of two 1/144 scale space ships, upper stages of a Saturn V and the fuel tank for the shuttle and one of the solid motor boosters. I need to make a couple of "funnels" for the concrete mixer as well as the main "drum". The funnel that is used to charge the drum at the concrete plant and the upper chute where the concrete is discharged from the drum. I need to find another part for the "water" tank that the driver uses to clean up after the concrete has been poured (you don't want any of that stuff hardening in the drum). A lot of slicing and dicing to get the shape I want. Probably the top of the second stage and one of the tank bulkheads to form the back end and then a section of the shuttle tank nose and third stage Saturn V for the narrower (discharge) end of the mixer drum. I think I can use the nose of the shuttle booster rocket and/or the booster rocket engine nozzles for the "funnels".

[G3750]

Well Chuck, you inspired me to go pick one up. It will go on the stack and hopefully we’ll get to it next year.

George

[Big Jim]

The figure scales out at about 5'8". He has a mold sink in his "stomach". I may try to putty it up but that knocks out details that I probably can't carve back in.

They are holy men.

I guess that one of my guys got lucky! Only one of them got the bazooka shell through the gut!

[E7]

I got the Mobil version off of Feebay (New Old Stock) and both were OK!

[chuck]

From:

https://www.creativemechanisms.com/blog/what-cause-injection-molding-defects-and-how-to-fix-them

Causes: Sink marks are often caused when the cooling time or the cooling mechanism is insufficient for the plastic to fully cool and cure while in the mold. They can also be caused by inadequate pressure in the cavity, or by an excessive temperature at the gate. All else being equal, thick sections of the injection molded part take longer to cool than thin ones and so are more likely to be where sink marks are located.

Remedies:

Mold temperatures should be lowered, holding pressure increased, and holding time prolonged to allow for more adequate cooling and curing.

Reducing the thickness of the thickest wall sections will also ensure faster cooling and help reduce the likelihood of sink marks.

Since I've been building models over a long period of time I've had the opportunity to buy the same kit (i.e. made from the same molds) over many years or even decades. The mold sinks are almost never in the exact same place on the part and in some cases are missing entirely. A well designed mod will have elements to deal with everything BUT inadequate cooling/cure time. If the manufacturer is pushing production they may be popping the stuff out before it has fully set.