By chance does anyone have an unused set of cast iron driver castings that would be somewhat appropriate for an I1? Not so concerned with number of spokes, more so just that they have straight counterweights and the right number of light medium and heavy castings. Just castings is ok, don't want to highjack anything useful. I happened into a an old Bronze ten driver frame that some crazy cut the ends off of at some point. The axle spacing is 1-3/8" so seems like it would be pretty close to cobble an I1 out of. I would model the boiler off of the SC K4's just fatten it up like Bob did on his I1. Also thinking of rebuilding on of my SC Mountians as a PRR M1 as well since I lucked into have I think enough straight counterweight drivers to fill it's axles up. It originally came with the die cast zamac drivers and rods and that crap all disentigrated long ago.
Anyway, again, looking for un machined CI castings (10) that I can use to build a PRR I1.
PRR ish 62" striaght counter weight drivers
-
- Posts: 348
- Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:31 pm
PRR ish 62" striaght counter weight drivers
Doorstop Rookie
-
- Posts: 12833
- Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 7:57 pm
Re: PRR ish 62" striaght counter weight drivers
That is a tough one. It is the straight cwt that will get you. But the CLW H10 drivers are a perfect match, and they came originally in cast iron. I will look through my castings. You know about annealing some of them?
-
- Posts: 348
- Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:31 pm
Re: PRR ish 62" striaght counter weight drivers
Maybe I will get lucky if I make it to the CHicago O show in a couple of months lol That or get Carey to cast some from his Saginaw patterns
Doorstop Rookie
-
- Posts: 12833
- Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 7:57 pm
Re: PRR ish 62" striaght counter weight drivers
If Carey has a line on a foundry he is just now my best friend!
Re: PRR ish 62" striaght counter weight drivers
Another option you might consider is how counterweights are traditionally done in UK 7mm. Usually, drivers are made available without weights. You get to make them, either of brass with whatever detail-work embossed and soldered in place in cast drivers or styrene likewise prepared and glued to the spokes of Slaters driving wheels.
I've used that same approach in a few of my US steam models to get unique or corrected counterweight shapes. I've sometimes had to file out or file back the existing cast-in weight to prepare them for new, but the approach is the same; make new of brass sheet, and solder them to the spokes. What you don't get is the depth between the spokes, but after paint it's inobvious enough that, while many have asked where I found the "right" drivers, no-one has caught me yet!
A not quite perfect option, but one that still works well.
I've used that same approach in a few of my US steam models to get unique or corrected counterweight shapes. I've sometimes had to file out or file back the existing cast-in weight to prepare them for new, but the approach is the same; make new of brass sheet, and solder them to the spokes. What you don't get is the depth between the spokes, but after paint it's inobvious enough that, while many have asked where I found the "right" drivers, no-one has caught me yet!
A not quite perfect option, but one that still works well.
No-one ever forgets where they buried the hatchet.
-
- Posts: 12833
- Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 7:57 pm
Re: PRR ish 62" striaght counter weight drivers
Or Bondo . . .
-
- Posts: 1979
- Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:38 pm
Re: PRR ish 62" striaght counter weight drivers
All I have are USH drivers. They are just under 63" but have the flat counterweights.
Jay
Jay
Return to “O-Gauge, 2-Rail, Model Railroading”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests