Styrene spray painting

[Chris Rock]

Hi,

I'm deliberating on how I should approach painting the simulated steel supports for my mine project. The supports are made of styrene and I'm afraid they may whack out when painted.

Usually I'd just test on some styrene pieces but surely people have done this before so I figured I'd ask if anyone has experience with this to get some reference.

I''m thinking of spraying the simulated styrene steel supports directly with either krylon or tamyia spray paint depending on the color I prefer.

The project has progressed perfectly until now. At this point I don't want to destroy what I've created.

I'll certainly test, but any input on what to expect is appreciated.

[De Bruin]

For what its worth, my hardware store sells a Krylon version specially formulated for styrene (label even boldly says for "PLASTIC".) I've never had any problems(waving, distorting etc) using it on either injection molded model kits or white Evergreen sheet.
Testing is a good idea though anyway.

[sarge]

Chris, if you are using rattle cans, I have no advice to stand behind but to test, and to seriously explore those paints made for the plastic modelling guys. I really loathe the lack of control and direction with them; feels like dealing with ants using a shotgun. If they are your thing, though, the armour and aircraft guys have several ranges and its well worth going to a shop or website oriented to the IPMS crowd to see what they have. It will amaze you, and not just the paints.

A small portable compressor can be had from the likes of Harbor Freight or Lowes/Craftsman for easy money. Then, you can take your airbrush out of the booth; it’s no more offensive in odour and fumes than rattle cans and a lot easier to control, laying paint in tighter places and with much less splatter, solvent, and carrier than with rattle cans. Getting up in the legwork of that thing will be much easier. I shoot Trucolor on bare styrene with no issues; just did a similar albeit smaller job painting the supporting iron-mongery on large tower structures that straddle tracks in a yard. Make sure to put a water trap inline, especially if you shoot out of doors.

If you are already used to acrylics in the booth, there is nothing that says you can’t shoot them outside the booth. Both the odour and plastic-compatibility issues go away at that point. Go back to the plastic aircraft and armour modellers and the paints availability, in several ranges and myriad colours in acrylics, will blow the mind.

I keep a little compressor under the layout, and am beginning scenic things now. Even painting rail becomes a dawdle with the airbrush; I’m at the very beginnings of teaching myself to shoot acrylics for things outside the booth and on the layout.

[E7]

I'm with Sarge all the way. I never had much luck with rattle cans unless it was for a slop job. The air pressure is continuously changing (getting less) with the rattle can. You can do other stuff with a half decent compressor, and one won't break the bank.

Rich

[Chris Rock]

Thanks for the responses. I was hoping to get around the setup and cleanup of the airbrush but with all that I've put into the project, a little extra time won't matter much and the experience will probably do me good. Looking into what the armor and aircraft hobbyists are doing sounds like a great idea. I do have to get the inline water trap worked out.

Thanks for taking the time. Great advice. I needed to hear this.

It is also good to know that there are rattle cans made for plastic. I might just get a can to at least test anyway.

[bob turner]

The Paasche Model H is easy to clean (lots easier than a rattle can nozzle). I hate cleaning stuff, so I often have to clean hardened paint fragments out of the nozzle before a precision spray project.

I suspect that even the worst rattle can formula, if sprayed lightly, will not cause distortion. It is the heavy coats that craze the surface. But then, I have no respect for plastic anyway. It is a superior modling medium.

[GreggL]

I cannot attest regarding Krylon, but I have used rattle-can Rustoleum gray primer, as well as Rustoleum Camo Brown, directly on Evergreen white styrene sheets and dimensional strips/shapes without any problem. I lay down the first coat fairly lightly.

...gregg

[sarge]

Chris

Traps are very easy. Tractor Supply, Lowes, et al, usually sell all the 1/4” NPT fittings and the trap itself to assemble on the downstream side of your regulator. I also use quick-connects; male end on the airbrush hoses and a female just downstream of the trap.

This is the compressor in the workshop at the booth. Downstream of the regulator is the trap, then a tee and two disconnects so I can have two airbrushes hooked up at once.


Out on the floor is this little compressor with a single disconnect:


Pop an airbrush off the big compressor at the booth, bring it with you as you suitcase the little one to wherever you intend to work, plug it in and snap the hose into the disconnect; that’s all the “set-up” required.


These fittings are cheap as chips and, once you set up the lot you’ll never ruin a model with an out-of-control rattle can again.

[Chris Webster]

Out on the floor is this little compressor with a single disconnect:

My little compressor is this $130 Harbor Freight model: 1 Gallon 135 PSI Ultra Quiet Hand Carry Jobsite Air Compressor
It's rather quiet for a compressor - it is quieter than most 3-rail engines and it's light enough that I just pick it up and carry it to where it is needed. I bought it after an HO guy recommended it; mine is still running fine after two years. (I mention that part in case any of you follow the first rule of HF: Don't buy anything from HF that plugs into an electrical outlet and you'll probably be ok. )

I also have a older and bigger compressor with more power, but I really don't like using that one any more because it is so darn loud compared to the little HF compressor.

[bob turner]

That is a great idea. I am using an ancient Bell & Gosset oil-less. Very quiet.
I do hate the noise of the modern big compressors, and will not work in the same space where one is running. Do not mind the older ones that go "falump-falump" instead of "BWAAA"
For big stuff I now use a Croix HVLP, which is super quiet - way quieter than a vacuum cleaner, and really throws the paint!

[Chris Rock]

I wasn't going to post this thread but I'm glad I did. I'll print it out and match. Thanks for taking the time with photos and specifics Brian and everyone.