The "Woody" D&H Challenger

[bob turner]

I am back. Ancient old airplane performed flawlessly. Ancient old pilot was really at his limit first day out. Coming back was a dream, in comparison.
Prop seal is pretty old - good thing I was too slow to catch anything, because after two hours forward visibility was a bit fuzzy.
Time to finish up, after a day's rest.

[bob turner]

By the way, while camped in the Radisson Santa Maria last night (overlooking the Cub on the ramp) I got to thinking about the ripples in the tender sides.
They are so minor I had determined not to mess with them. However, being an amateur auto body fixer, I got to thinking about a smoothing layer of, say, Bondo or JB Weld. Max thickness would be about 1/64". Thoughts? Too much like work?

[R.K. Maroon]

Hope your trip was good, Bob. There on business or pleasure?

As to filling the waves in the tender sides, I would not attempt it if I would be working near a rivet line. Anytime I do that, I manage to inadvertently take down some rivet heads while sanding smooth the fill.

Your results may vary.

Jim

[bob turner]

Agree. The D&H is a welded (smooth side) tender.

Semi-pleasure. Took a Cub from San Diego to Trinity Center and back. My buddy wanted to land it in a pasture nestled in the Trinity Alps (beautiful country). Talked him out of it after I visited the site.

[ScaleCraft]

I did inspect the sides when here.
Had no idea where the line dividing acceptable and unacceptable was.

I HAVE shrunk steel sheet before.
But, brass properties are so different than steel, and no idea if heat and wet rag shrinks or expands brass.

[rogruth]

I seem to remember ripples in the sides of real tenders and also on many diesel loco sides.
So why worry? Of course my memory could be failing.

[bob turner]

Shot Jay's Scalecoat black this evening. It was indeed the original formula, and went on like glossy auto paint. What a pleasure, spraying that stuff. Thanks, Jay. The bottle was full! I thought you were giving me left over paint.

Yes, real welded tenders have ripples, as do smooth-sided passenger cars. I think the tender is pretty close to ok for a model.
I may just sand it and shoot some Scale Coat on it. Better for the decals.

[E7]

I seem to remember ripples in the sides of real tenders and also on many diesel loco sides.
So why worry? Of course my memory could be failing.

That's a decision better left to the owner of the model and the guy that's fixing it. (opinion)

[rogruth]

I seem to remember ripples in the sides of real tenders and also on many diesel loco sides.
So why worry? Of course my memory could be failing.

That's a decision better left to the owner of the model and the guy that's fixing it. (opinion)

I didn't say it wasn't and I agree. Just pointing out something I recalled that might help in making a decision.

[Jay Criswell]

Bob,

Sending old paint, or a half full bottle, just didn't seem appropriate. Glad it went on well for you.

Jay

[bob turner]

Shot the tender sides to match. High gloss, and the ripples just are not that bad. Trial assembly this evening; final photos tomorrow.

Also shot a PA/PB in prep for Alclad II. They say the shininess depends on glossy black. That, too, tomorrow. I am again in love with my ancient Paasche model H.

[E7]

Shot the tender sides to match. High gloss, and the ripples just are not that bad. Trial assembly this evening; final photos tomorrow. They are so minor I had determined not to mess with them. However, being an amateur auto body fixer, I got to thinking about a smoothing layer of, say, Bondo or JB Weld. Max thickness would be about 1/64". Thoughts? Too much like work?

A light/careful burnishing from the inside might remove them.

[Jay Criswell]

Bob,

Skim coat?

Jay

[bob turner]

I considered it. It would be really thin. Next time.

[bob turner]

Last post - done! I note that the trailing truck (not Lobaugh) bears the legend "#4 - 1515" - Still suffering under the idea that this might have been a Gerry White, maybe he made four?