Doorstops - Cast Brass, Bronze, Aluminum

[E7]

so now it is just whether the foundry still likes me. More in a bit, with photos.

They will love you as long as you have a supply of green rectangular likenesses of dead presidents and statesmen.

[rex desilets]

I am even more impressed with Mr. Mann

[Jay Criswell]

A true gentleman offered me the following;

While seeking car wheels I ran into two new 12 inch lengths of the early power unit drive chain. There are a number of O Scale modelers restoring early units that utilized this chain. If you would have use for these chains I will send them on to you.

Truth be told, I have no use for them. I asked him if I could offer them to someone more inclined to have a use for them and he agreed so here's my question. Jim, Maroon, Carey, et al, who can use this chain. Let me know and I will connect you with the man making the offer.

Jay

[up148]

I'm packing up my train stuff for a move in 2 weeks. Can't believe some of the crap I still have. Sort of like seeing an old friend, but then realizing there is no reason to keep it as it was crap when I bought it and still crap today.

[Carey Williams]

Hello Jay

is this the ladder chain ? great ..! I can split what you may have between Jim and Steve . +..Arthur if he is good

thank you for helping keep the bricks rolling

cheers carey



up148 ...O scale crap does not improve with age, like wine ?

and just because this is the cast brass /bronze /aluminum heading .....check out the PRR class P's .....O scale 17/64ths ..believe this is the Acme . Roy Robbins switched to 17/64ths for awhile after a short business arrangement with Lee B Green.

and on the race to smaller gauges ...OO was a stepping stone ..here the Nason, Class P, considered the first commercial OO gauge kit engine ...why yes those are outside 3rd rail sweeps ..thank you for asking

Both pieces date to the end of 1934 .

Cheers Carey

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[Jay Criswell]

Carey,

Email with contact info sent.

Jay

[bob turner]

Well, this is from forever ago - I was looking for an E7 thread. Just made the first attempt at GM & O - not really happy with the stripes, but delerious with the color scheme. I am prepping an all-cast unit for another attempt. I will use better thin masking tape, and align it with a straightedge.

[bob turner]

The all-cast unit is almost ready for striping tape. This time I will use a straightedge. I have done pretty good stripes in the past. Photos next week, maybe.

The tiny spray cans are now $18. That is up from about $2.95 three or four years ago. Almost cheaper to buy it in cans, and thin for the airbrush.

[E7]

Looks pretty good Bob. All we need is a passenger car with Tibbs getting off, and a little Ray Charles "In the Heat of the Night" background music.

[bob turner]

Reallly tough to capture these colors. I just completed a second unit, with much better stripes. I will be re=doing the front part of the first unit with way better, straighter stripes. I will try again for the colors, but the shot two posts up really did get them -





It is the unit with the black side windows (obviously) that will be getting rework.

[De Bruin]

Cool E-units Bob. May want to re-photo these in a different light, looks like you used low sun-light to shoot these which invariably makes reds, oranges and yellow appear "hotter" than they actually are, otherwise they look good to me, and yeah not the easiest scheme to begin with either.
Per your previous post(s) I finally employed a yellow paint-pen to fill in some of the grabs, ladders etc. on that Weaver RF-16 project and was pleased with the results, though I'm reluctant to use one for car body stripes. Do you set up a straight edge to apply the stripes with them? Also, how are you fixed for the decals for these guys?

[bob turner]

Jim just sent me a set of decals. He takes good care of me, and hints that maybe we can put all this neat stuff in a GM&O thread.

Yes, using low sunlight. I used to have big spotlights, but got better luck in sunlight. The red is a bright red; the maroon is a Chrysler metallic wine color. It really is striking, although the red could have had a touch of orange. Paint is becoming problematic, with good rattle cans now sixteen bucks for the small size. I may have to go back to Rustoleum, and waste half a can.

Are Pilot pens still available? Yes, I use a straightedge, with a couple layers of masking tape to prevent capillary between the edge and the paint. For yellow, always run a white stripe first.

I have not tried it on the Dupli-Color, but for Scalecoat, you need to bake and wait a week before using the pen. Curved lines are done with old credit cards, cut to the curve, and again use tape for the standoff.

[E7]

Cool E-units Bob. May want to re-photo these in a different light, looks like you used low sun-light to shoot these which invariably makes reds, oranges and yellow appear "hotter" than they actually are, otherwise they look good to me, and yeah not the easiest scheme to begin with either.

Guessing they do not "pop" like that to the eye. Even the black roofs are intense.

A nice color scheme not often seen.

Really nice job Bob!

[Retroniac1]

Bob,
Paint job looks great. What brand of paints are you using these days?

I surmise that you are using Pilot Paint Pens. The only thing I could find out about Pilot paint pens is under the odd name “Juice Paint.” Makes it sound like it’s potable.

Rob

[bob turner]

Sorry - it used to be Pilot Pens - for a decade, I guess, it has been these:

https://www.amazon.com/Uchida-America-1 ... j9EALw_wcB

The critical things:

Always let the paint on the basic model dry for a week. A week! Bake it if you can.

Use a straightedge with masking tape underneath, so the paint cannot capillary under the edge. Multiple layers of tape if you are doing rivet strips raised above the car body.

Do the stripe in white first, then overlay with color of your choice - particularly important with yellows. Silver and gold go on pretty good without white underlay.

Mistake? Wipe it off quickly and start over.

---

The GM&O diesels were done with thin line masking tape over yellow paint. I needed the yellow anyway, under the red. You want red to look good, then it is white, yellow, and red.

And yeah, they "pop" - even the gloss black aids in the popping. The red and maroon are a good contrast, but you would not know it from the photos.
Really pleased with this pair of doorstops. Jim sent decals; they will go on next week, and I will try another photo.