Manufacturer I.D.

Discuss All Facets of 2-Rail, 1/48 Scale, Model Railroading
aterry11
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby aterry11 » Tue Oct 10, 2017 11:14 am

I have been following the advice of Bob T and using epoxy on the sides for the last couple of years, anything I have with holes came that way to me. Just finished another Bob trick and baked the trucks for some UP cars being 2 railed. I am not a nail fan but some kits are rare and you have to take what you can get.

Carey Williams
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby Carey Williams » Tue Oct 10, 2017 11:53 am

Hello all

answers ( to the best of my ability... open for suggestions)

top left Chester Arts ..see link for more riveting / nail biting details

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/che ... enger-cars


bottom left I assume Walthers stamped metal sides , cast ends , wood roof and floor

top right Alexander ( American Model Railroads Co) cast sides / ends...wood roof and floor

more details check out link

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=17062&p=318978&hilit=alexander#p318978

bottom right ... ? bake-lite / plastic sides wood roof and floor ..Bill ? dealer from WI at Indy identified it but excitement over recent purchasing the cast Alexander car caused memory lapse on the maker .....

here is a link with more photos

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=17096&p=319966&hilit=alexander#p319966

Unknown if makers specified the use of nails exclusively over gluing the sides to the floor and roof .. ... the later box car kits have pre drilled holes.. for the use of nails / pins /brads

The study of all the kit makers could be a many volume series of books ...

Cheers Carey

bob turner
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby bob turner » Wed Oct 11, 2017 1:39 pm

Here is a truly ugly closeup of my Scale Craft Mountain. A "scale model", sure, but look at that grotesque check valve. I have lots of check valves, but retained these because of some misguided desire to retain the doorstoppiness of this thing.

Note also the holes - ready for pins. It turns out that many of the pins supplied with freight car kits over the years are the right size - I just have not gathered them together with some glue. Someday . . .

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big bad jim
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby big bad jim » Tue Oct 17, 2017 12:31 pm

Here are some pictures of the car in question. The ends, roof and sides are metal. The floor and the substrate under the roof are wood. It's neat that they at least tried to disguise the pins by lining them up with a line of rivets, or attaching them through the ladders.
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bob turner
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby bob turner » Tue Oct 17, 2017 1:28 pm

Nice work. Those pins were huge. The ones that come in the kit are less obtrusive.

How did you get the paint to match so well?

Rufus T. Firefly
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby Rufus T. Firefly » Tue Oct 17, 2017 4:31 pm

How to tell whether a 40' steel sided boxcar (with metal roof, metal ends, and metal underframe) is an Athearn car or an All-Nation car:

1) If you measure the length of the car from the underside, from the inside of one metal end to the inside of the other metal end, an All-Nation car will measure 10", whereas an Athearn car will measure 10-1/8". This is the same dimension as the car sides.

2) If you open the doors, an Athearn car will have a wood or composition inner wall, whereas an All-Nation car will not.

3) Just below the right end of the lower door slide, the scalloped edge along the bottom of the car side, an All-Nation car will be cut vertically, whereas an Athearn car will be cut at an angle, just like all of the other scalloped edges on both cars. Obviously, a modeler could trim an All-Nation car to look like an Athearn, but an Athearn car would never be made to look like an All-Nation.

4) Along the bottom edge of the roof overhang, along the side of the car, most Athearn cars will have a row of rivets, whereas an All-Nation car will not. Do not confuse this row of rivets with the row of rivets along the top edge of the car side, which both cars have.
Conservatism: The intense fear that somewhere, somehow, someone you think is inferior is being treated as your equal.

CMorrill
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby CMorrill » Tue Oct 17, 2017 6:10 pm

The ACY car looks like a mixed bag to me. The sides are All Nation. The frame and running board parts are Athearn. Possibly the roof as well as there is a significant over bend in the roof ends to make it match the short All Nation sides.

Charlie

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big bad jim
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby big bad jim » Tue Oct 17, 2017 7:36 pm

Thanks for the replies. The car belongs to a friend, who purchased it already built at the the Chicago meet. He has a second car in Great Northern livery that he got at the same time.

I'll pass along the information provided here. Maybe I can get him to bring the Great Northern car next Monday if anybody would like to see it.

The car is really quite nicely done. There will need to be some touch to the paint on the corners, and full brake rigging will be added. And obviously the other truck will be put back on.

Thanks for the help!
Jim

PRR Man
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby PRR Man » Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:50 pm

I've found 1/8" brass brads made by Cir-Kit Concepts, a dollhouse product manf. Really, really small!
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Chris

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R.K. Maroon
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby R.K. Maroon » Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:28 pm

CMorrill wrote:The ACY car looks like a mixed bag to me. The sides are All Nation. The frame and running board parts are Athearn. Possibly the roof as well as there is a significant over bend in the roof ends to make it match the short All Nation sides.

Charlie

Good eye, Charlie -- I had not noticed the roof overhang.

And thanks to Rufus for the spotters guide information. I was aware of the scallop difference at the bottom of the sides but not the other details, like the rivets on the roof overhang. And I have yet to learn the difference between an All Nation and Athearn frame. Charlie apparently knows though.

Jim
Slow progress is better than no progress

Rufus T. Firefly
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Re: Manufacturer I.D.

Postby Rufus T. Firefly » Wed Oct 18, 2017 3:02 pm

R.K. Maroon wrote:And I have yet to learn the difference between an All Nation and Athearn frame.


I think the AN one has all of the struts doubled back to back with the truck mounting screw between a pair of them at each end.
Conservatism: The intense fear that somewhere, somehow, someone you think is inferior is being treated as your equal.


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