Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
I've been wanting to try that Toyota hose thing for the longest time now, thanks to one Bob Turner.
Does anyone here have a part number? Or at the very least, a description so I can go to the nearest dealer and not appear a fool?
(Of course, let's hope they don't ask what I want it for... )
Mark in Oregon
Does anyone here have a part number? Or at the very least, a description so I can go to the nearest dealer and not appear a fool?
(Of course, let's hope they don't ask what I want it for... )
Mark in Oregon
- R.K. Maroon
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Mark -- I bought a length of hose from toyatapartszone.com:
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~hose~fuel~no~1~for~charcoal~canister~90999-92004.html
I have no idea if this is the exact same hose that Bob recommends, but it fits snuggly over a 3/16" shaft and appears to be good quality. Note however that shipping is more than the price of the hose, so you are in for a little over $1 per inch of hose. That is of course cheaper than a U-joint but only if you use the whole length of hose up. For most of us this will be a lifetime supply. If you are disinclined to buy that much, PM me and I will send you a short section.
Jim
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~hose~fuel~no~1~for~charcoal~canister~90999-92004.html
I have no idea if this is the exact same hose that Bob recommends, but it fits snuggly over a 3/16" shaft and appears to be good quality. Note however that shipping is more than the price of the hose, so you are in for a little over $1 per inch of hose. That is of course cheaper than a U-joint but only if you use the whole length of hose up. For most of us this will be a lifetime supply. If you are disinclined to buy that much, PM me and I will send you a short section.
Jim
Slow progress is better than no progress
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
I use the Toyota tubing/hose but not for connecting drives to trucks that have to rotate. Some swear by it but it's poor engineering as far as I'm concerned. Having said that, if it works for someone....cool!
I've been working on more of these but I'm so far behind I'm starting to lose friends and customers.....oh well!
Mechanisms for Red Caboose GP-9s. P&D brass trucks and Des Plaines brass frames. As usual, Faulhaber gear head motors with everything turning 1:1 in ball bearings and wipers mounted in Delrin.
Decoder is LokSound. They are new to me but from my limited knowledge they seem really good.
One down, two to go. Two are P48, one is regular O Scale.
Looks like I need to touch up some paint.
You may see the first one a lot in the future.
Jay
I've been working on more of these but I'm so far behind I'm starting to lose friends and customers.....oh well!
Mechanisms for Red Caboose GP-9s. P&D brass trucks and Des Plaines brass frames. As usual, Faulhaber gear head motors with everything turning 1:1 in ball bearings and wipers mounted in Delrin.
Decoder is LokSound. They are new to me but from my limited knowledge they seem really good.
One down, two to go. Two are P48, one is regular O Scale.
Looks like I need to touch up some paint.
You may see the first one a lot in the future.
Jay
Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Jay, really exceptional workmanship there !
Robert
Robert
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Really nice, do you add weight blocks to the Des Plaines plate?
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- Posts: 1979
- Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:38 pm
Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Hey Tom,
Yes, I was using Kelly's aluminum frame and steel weights and they were fine. I wanted to use the DP brass frame because of the added weight of the frame itself. Because I'd already done quite a few and had parts pre-made to fit the alloy frame it was easier to just make identical weights out of brass bar stock. Just a FWIW, the weight are screwed to the frame. I tend to break less taps when working with brass instead of aluminum or steel.
I have a couple of CLW machined brass frames also and plan on installing my drives into those. They weight quite a bit more.
The cool thing is these things still draw less than 1/4 amp ant full throttle, wheels spinning. In my mind they're perfect for battery operation. Well, almost perfect.....they're kinda pricey.
Jay
Yes, I was using Kelly's aluminum frame and steel weights and they were fine. I wanted to use the DP brass frame because of the added weight of the frame itself. Because I'd already done quite a few and had parts pre-made to fit the alloy frame it was easier to just make identical weights out of brass bar stock. Just a FWIW, the weight are screwed to the frame. I tend to break less taps when working with brass instead of aluminum or steel.
I have a couple of CLW machined brass frames also and plan on installing my drives into those. They weight quite a bit more.
The cool thing is these things still draw less than 1/4 amp ant full throttle, wheels spinning. In my mind they're perfect for battery operation. Well, almost perfect.....they're kinda pricey.
Jay
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Hey Jay, I purchased one of those CLW brass frames for the GP-35 kit I bought from you last OSW. I also have one of the Des Plaines Hobbies brass plate from the previous run (2-3 years ago?). I'd be real interested in how the drive adapts to the CLW frame as you can't really run the truck to truck drive shaft through that nice solid fuel tank. I read where you've taken over the Protocraft drives, how soon will you be up to speed on the inventory?
As always, Tom Dempsey (Far too many projects and way too OCD to ever get anything finished).
As always, Tom Dempsey (Far too many projects and way too OCD to ever get anything finished).
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Tom,
The Protocraft drives and parts have always been mine. I just let Norm list them. I have 95% of the inventory here. Typically, when he sold something I would either ship it to him, or his customers.
Unless the customer asks for it no driveshaft goes through the fuel tank (tank drive).
Jay
The Protocraft drives and parts have always been mine. I just let Norm list them. I have 95% of the inventory here. Typically, when he sold something I would either ship it to him, or his customers.
Unless the customer asks for it no driveshaft goes through the fuel tank (tank drive).
Jay
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Thanks Jay.
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Tom,
What trucks are you planning to use? The reason I ask is, the P&Ds really don't match up real well with the later CLW machined frame. For that reason, I borrowed the Blomberg dies and molds from Lou Houlemarde. My plan is to make 15 sets of the later CLW Blomberg trucks. There is an earlier version, made by CLW, but the later is much nicer.
Jay
What trucks are you planning to use? The reason I ask is, the P&Ds really don't match up real well with the later CLW machined frame. For that reason, I borrowed the Blomberg dies and molds from Lou Houlemarde. My plan is to make 15 sets of the later CLW Blomberg trucks. There is an earlier version, made by CLW, but the later is much nicer.
Jay
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Some of the CLW trucks are the best ever. I think their PA truck was as good as they get. It is truly neat that you could borrow those masters. Give Lou my regards.
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- Posts: 1979
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Bob,
I will. His Blombergs are at least as good as the P&D and you could argue, maybe better.
Yeah, he's a great guy and an even better modeler.
Jay
I will. His Blombergs are at least as good as the P&D and you could argue, maybe better.
Yeah, he's a great guy and an even better modeler.
Jay
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
I purchased the "chassis" from Lou after e-mailing him and asking if the P&D trucks would fit, he said yes, so I bought one. It's really nice, I think, and a great start. Also, I like the fact that I can just solder away on adding "jewelry". I purchased a P&D GP-9 kit from Des Plaines, and now I'm saving up to get the P-48 kit from, well I guess you now, instead of Norm. I cut my mechanical department teeth on WATCO GP-35's and GP-30's, so my plan is to build a pretty accurate model of my favorite locomotive from my heavy working years. I also want it to have enough umph to pull an correctly scaled train. That ultimately means three of them, and about 80 to 110 cars. Yeah I know, where the heck am I going to find a big enough layout? One challenge at a time!
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- Posts: 1979
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Tom,
Once I have the CLW Blombergs done I'll let you look at them. In the end, they'll probably cost as much as the P&D. Maybe we could work a trade.
I'll bring a set to OSW.
Jay
Once I have the CLW Blombergs done I'll let you look at them. In the end, they'll probably cost as much as the P&D. Maybe we could work a trade.
I'll bring a set to OSW.
Jay
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Re: Machine Shop / Locomotive Drive Work
Sounds good, see you there.
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