Cheap-O Auto Parts Train (in breakable styrene & basswood)

[J. S. Bach]

Dave,

Your photos show very nicely why I don't run that type of car on my layout.

But Roger, that hopper has the right wheels and couplers!

[rogruth]

OK. Let me re-state that.

The hopper is fine but those boxcars wouldn't make it around any curve on my layout.

This does not bother me a lot. I just need to be careful with what I buy.

[J. S. Bach]

They probably would not make it around any curve on whatever layout I will build either. Even so, I do like them and have had them for a while; in fact, I built the Santa Fe one from a Lykens Valley kit and it still lives in its original box.

[rogruth]

I remember PRR and DT&I cars like that going through South Charleston,Ohio traveling between Detroit and Cincinnati carrying Ford auto parts.

The above named roads crossed and interchanged there and several DT&I trains made the trip everyday. The first time I saw one of those
cars on the interchange I wondered if it would make it. It had over-hang on the connecting curve similar to running an 18" car around
an O42 curve.

[DeBruin]

It's interesting to see photos of these models, I'm guessing the same elusive QC 85' High Cubes that I've never been able to snag on E-Bay either built or unbuilt. Dave the Lykens Valley AT&SF is a real beauty. They're exactly the kind of cars found on those auto-parts trains, thanks for posting guys. Roger, for me the DT&I version of these is a great looking, it's interesting how many other smaller regional roads had these behemoths like the C&EI, GT, WAB etc.
The prototype's were built by Greenville, PS and Thrall and I believe the model can be rendered for any one of them specifically by road choice, number and ladder and grab hardware arrangement etc.
Quality Craft kits especially these modern cars, filled a real niche in the pre-PRC days for those who couldn't afford brass. I'm always impressed to see them built. So here's one of those QC 66' lumber cars, again one of three Jim scored a few years ago. You'll note the builder moved the truck center's inward (also not un-commonly done with LW passenger cars) to make them more tight-radius friendly, with the coupler swing radius with Kadee's and box mounted Monarchs often an issue as a trade-off. I have no idea if this B&O scheme is correct or not for this car at all.

[rogruth]

I didn't know that cars this size were used for LCL shipments but that is what is marked on the side.

[DeBruin]

These were supposedly built for finished lumber service, primarily large plywood sheeting for crates, laminates, custom pallets etc, hence the large doors, so I think the lettering set may be an artistic license taken by the original builder. The two others are done in PC and Conrail and I can find no prototype example for those either.
Pete

[aterry11]

If my old employer will let me shoot photos, we parted on amicable terms, I can shoot pics of these and other similar cars at Omaha Box Co. inside the building next to the corrugator. The double doors facilitated easy unloading of paper rolls using a clamp forklift.

[DeBruin]

That would be very interesting to see Terry if you get the chance. I don't recall seeing prototype photos of these ever.
Here's a PC version of the same kit, think the decals were Walthers; one thing about these wood kits, they sure don't "like" decals unless you
prep the application areas extra carefully with stage primer/sanding and gloss sealer. I see why Rufous uses dry transfers exclusively.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

I see why Rufous uses dry transfers exclusively.

Not exclusively; just when possible,

[J. S. Bach]

I don't recall seeing prototype photos of these ever. Here's a PC version of the same kit

I have one of those done up in "Hello Dolly The Freight Car of the Future" the I got at a train show; the model's color is a sort of cream with dark graphics. It is currently buried somewhere and is not accessible for photography at this time. Here is a link to some information on the prototype:

http://www.trainorders.com/discussion/r ... 11,1692146

Information in the spider's web is quite sparse; although to be fair, I did not expend much blood, sweat, and tears in the search.

[sarge]

The chances are pretty good you can get those decals to nestle in, even after all these years. Try this:

1) Using Solva-Set full-strength (Not Micro-sol; it isn't strong enough) and a 3-aught paintbrush, wet the decal (so it doesn't shatter and blow away).

2) Take a small sewing needle and prik (apparently the software here thinks the proper spelling is only used in this day and age to provoke hilarity by secondary schoolboys) the decal through both the clear-coat and the decal itself so the Solva-set can get underneath. You might have to stab at it a few times here and there.

3) Once you see the liquid fill all the air-pockets (which is what the hazing is) put another drop on top and leave it alone.

4) Resist the temptation to press it out, even if it wrinkles up.

5) Repeat if you don't get it perfect the first time; It might take a trip or two if the original builder put a thick clearcoat over the decal.

90% of the time this works really well, 8% it works partially, and 1% of the time it does nothing for you at all, so you can't lose. The other 1% I reserve for my own protection if something bad happens , although I personally have never had anything happen that made things worse than they were when I started.

If you have ongoing experience with a diabetic, you might surmise (on your own, of course) insulin hypos would work very well for this; a very fine needle-tip and the ability to actually inject Solva-set under the decal rather than leech it under by capillary action. (Disclaimer-I would never, of course, suggest such a thing since the use of an insulin hypo as a tool is probably illegal in California, DC, Colorado, Maryland, Massachusetts, and France. In the Nanny State such a heretical flouting of H&S regulation would have one detained at Her Majesty's pleasure for merely suggesting such a thing, so I won't mention it. You didn't learn this from me!)

[DeBruin]

Thanks Sarge, I had thought of "working" these with a re-application of setting compound and some "needling" but had not considered that veritable "nuclear option" of good old industrial Solvaset. I have an economy size bottle of the same that I only break out when all else has failed, it usually works but always risks eating the pigment off the decal or (and this has happened too) dissolving paint or plastic surfaces, though obviously not an issue with these basswood models.

JS Dave, you 'da man , I actually recall a thumbnail on the Hello Dolly cars in an long ago Trains issue under news and photos, I failed to connect that to these models though, thanks for the TO link, I need to start running searches there, never remembering to do so even though I joined. The Nostalgia & History section is a friggin' gold mine.

I will post some more "modern" Quality Craft models here, encourage anybody else out there with one or more they're proud of (or not) something odd about wood kits to model steel prototypes

[aterry11]

Mr Sarge question from the peanut gallery? Do they still make solva set? Used it on model airplanes because of the rivets. When I jumped back into models and dug my stuff out the bottle was dry. I switched to the two step micro products and not as happy as I should be. Tempted to use the future I keep hearing about, but don't want to ruin something from my lack of experimentation. Walthers used to make it? know of a source. Thanks as always for your sage advice. Terry.

[J. S. Bach]

JS Dave, you 'da man , I actually recall a thumbnail on the Hello Dolly cars in an long ago Trains issue under news and photos, I failed to connect that to these models though, thanks for the TO link.

No problem. Actually, if I did not own one of the models (note that I could not remember if it was a tanker or box originally as I also have a tanker in a very similar livery), I would not have done a search as I would have looked at the pictures and thought: "Hmmm, I would not mind having a similar car.".

PS1: Change out those trucks, they should be seventy ton roller bearing.
PS2: Please move the trucks out to where they belong!
PS3: I do not think that I have ever seen one for sale in a long time; in fact, the last one that I saw was/is the one that I have.