Scratch Building #6 Turnouts (was Trout Creek/BK Enterprises Turnouts???

[Robert]

Atlas O rail joiners should be compatible with any code 148 rail. I use 1/4" spikes with my code 125 rail...Cannot say for sure regarding code 148, but my guess is 1/4" would be fine. A #5 takes about 66-68 inches...so figure 6ft of rail per #5 switch to allow for some errors especially during the beginning. As far as bench building turnouts...well that's how the commercial builders do it. They typically use several strips of tie sized copper clad PC boards and solder these to the turnout at appropriate locations to create a stable and moveable, shippable turnout. These PC ties are not necessarily mandatory...one can use scrap rail or any solderable scrap metal pieces to span the turnout and stabilize it and after it is spiked in place desolder these scrap metal pieces.

This all make sense Bob?

Robert

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Thanks Robert, makes perfect sense.

What would be wrong with super gluing the rails, to hold them in the proper position, to the ties, then spiking them?

[Robert]

Well if you can achieve and then maintain the accurate alignment (using super glue) of the turnout on the ties I suppose you could spike them after you position it on the layout where you plan to locate it. I think there are various methods that people have likely tried. You have only to please yourself in this pursuit Bob...if you screw something up...fix it and learn as you go forward. Study some of the techniques others have used via YouTube etc. There is no wrong way since it is a learning curve, and your bound to get the hang of it if your patient, and careful. Make sure to keep a track gage handy...badly laid turnouts are a PIA once you get to running trains through them.

Robert

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Thanks!

Well...I need the following to get started : code 148 NS rail, ties, rail joiners, and spikes. Do you think I can find a single source for these on the internet?!?!?!

Most places I looked either have 1/2 the stuff backordered, not in stock, or just plain not listed I hope this isn't the norm for 2-rail

At least I'm making progress clearing out the room.

[Jay Criswell]

BobD

I'm curious, where are you looking?

Jay

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Jay, I looked at your site first, but it says the code 148 NS rail is "not available at this time". Also, while I like the look of your rail joiners, my wallet dictates a cheaper alternative

You do have the spikes and ties so That will put me half way there, but need rail to use them.

I can find everything, just not in one spot.

[Jay Criswell]

Sounds like my internet guy screwed up. I have plenty of code 148 NS.

Joiners could be an issue. We have the cast NS but they are expensive. If you goal is to use joiners to keep your rail aligned and conduct current the stamped version will work marginally. We don't carry them because joiners aren't used for any of the reasons I listed. In actuality, joiners are really more cosmetic. The preferred method of carrying the current is through jumper wires extending through the bottom of your base material. I do have some cast 148 joiners that didn't cast up perfectly and if you can deal with the flaws you can have them.

Some of the frogs have rail joiners cast in. The 148 points have joiners cast in also.

How about you email me through the site with everything you want and I'll provide you with an invoice. Please keep in mind, the shipping will only be an estimate.

Jay

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Thanks Jay, email sent.

Just a thought...being I'm presently battery-powered, I could get away with using plastic joiners. But If I ever decided to go back to powering the rails, I guess I'd have to jumper everything.

BobD

[robert.]

Plastic joiners cost more. Twice as much and more with some suppliers. When i asked around for them everybody told me just cut through your rail.

[Jay Criswell]

Hi BobD,

I believe, as do many others, you should never depend on rail joiners for an electrical connection. Jumper everything and wire to a buss. Joiners are more for looks than anything else. Your spikes will hold the rail in place. Sure, with battery power it doesn't matter but, as you mention, easier now rather than later. I need to learn more about battery power and I have a question, wouldn't having everything wired to a buss that goes back to a central control area be needed for detection? Again, depending on joiners my not be satisfactory.

Also keep in mind, unless your layout is located in an area with a year around environmental control and the temperatures don't vary much you'll want the rail to be able to expand and contract. When we were building the Fresno Club Layout we didn't place a gap where the rails joined. Everything done during the winter had to be redone because the rail expanded during the summer and buckled. It's really not as big a deal for short pieces (like what you'll have in your turnouts) but your 3' to 6' sections can wreak havoc. Our temperatures didn't vary more than say 40 degrees but it was enough.

Some people talk about soldering all there joiners but, to me, this gets back to the issue of not allowing the rail to expand and contract.

I'd love to hear the thoughts of others on this issue.

Do you have a copy of Mike Cougill's book on detailing track? Lots of good info.

Jay

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Thanks guys.

I've always used joiners, in HO and O, guess I'm just used to having them. I'll see as this project progresses.

Don't have Mike's book but will look for it.

My current layout has ZERO wires going to it, see no need to change now, but there may come a time when I might need something wired in, I'll keep the underneath kinda clear so if I have to crawl under there I can.

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

IMO soldering the joints is just another mess that has to be dealt with that probably isn't required. I like the simple approach

[Tom Dempsey]

Solder to PCB Ties than you can gap and wire to the ties. If you use PCB Ties for building your turnouts, you can build them on the veranda and transport them across state lines and they'll still be in gauge.

[Robert]

I've had a running/operating model railroad in my New England basement for the best part of the last 35 plus years. One in HO scale and now in O scale (2R) My practice is to solder my rail joiners in place and fill necessary gaps used for DCC with plastic joiners/fillers. I have never once had any issues of shrinkage or expansion with trackage. My basement is dehumidified/air conditioned in the spring through fall months, wood stove heated in winter (glorious heat btw) and I do understand this trackage assemblage practice can have make variables for hobbyists in different regions...but I'm just saying what has worked for me for a long time.

Robert

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

I can't recall having any expansion/contraction issues here in Portsmouth, but Ed Rappe has had some issues up in Williamsburg, approx 50 miles away.

The only issues I have are with my cats. The female sheds all over the layout and the male likes to eat the trees! Other issues are my own fault.