Polishing brass.

[Jay Criswell]

RFT,

Yep, nasty stuff. We've talked about this before. Nasty but it works.

Not sure of the concentration. I don't use the nitric, just the Brite-Dip.

If I want the brass clean I use my 10 gallon ultrasonic machine with clock cleaner that contains ammonia. The ammonia brightens the brass.

This is the solution I use, http://www.ronellclock.com/Clock-Cleani ... L-100A.htm

Jay

[sarge]

Just want it to look clean? Barkeepers. My Barkeepers does not put a shine on, and my experience with Simichrome (limited) is if you rub it it will shine as well as Brasso.

In places where one traditionally uses Brasso, Simichrome is much better. Gives a finish akin to BKF.

I mistyped one thing in my quote above, which I will blame freely on the fuzzyness that came with yesterday's main event, a root-canal job. My mind had wandered off when the time came to type the last three words. What I was thinking was:

In places where one traditionally uses Brasso, Simichrome is much better. Gives a finish better than Brasso with a lot less effort.

One thing that any of these polishes (not the dips being discussed so much, but the polishes) do is actually reduce the ability of some paints to stick. I save the polishes for unpainted stuff, not prepaint prep.

Back to point, Butch, if that model you are consulting on has a clearcoat, then you or your friend do have a whole different kettle of fish to boil.

[up148]

Back to point, Butch, if that model you are consulting on has a clearcoat, then you or your friend do have a whole different kettle of fish to boil.

Luckily, it's a 35 year old PSC model that isn't really heavily tarnished, oxidized or showing fingerprints like the Korean models do (must be a different alloy of brass), it just has the aged brass look most unpainted USH, WS and PSC locos can get. Clearcoat has long been removed and it might have even been a painted model at one time. But, Greg super-detailed it many years ago after having Stu repower it, so it's an exceptional model right now before the new enhancements are added.

BH

[bob turner]

Some of my 35 year old PSC Pullmans have a clear coat. They can get corroded underneath the coating, and so far, even paint remover won't touch the clear coat.

I need to add, just in case - if you ever decide to "blast" be sure to cut the air down to about 35 psi and go easy on thin stuff. It can and will warp if you hit it too hard.

[up148]

Some of my 35 year old PSC Pullmans have a clear coat. They can get corroded underneath the coating, and so far, even paint remover won't touch the clear coat.

I need to add, just in case - if you ever decide to "blast" be sure to cut the air down to about 35 psi and go easy on thin stuff. It can and will warp if you hit it too hard.

Did that on a caboose many decades ago. Used a shop bead blaster (silicone sand) machine and loved the way it removed the paint.................but, when I saw how it warped the metal, that joy turn negative quickly.

BH

[cole7015]

by all means only use 220 grit red aluminum oxide at an angle of 45 deg 35 psi at 6 10 inches .
done this for years no warped models.

Bill Basden Delta Models www.deltamodelsusa.com