Chemical or ??? for removing solder from small delicate details

[up148]

I was just wondering if there is a chemical (safe hopefully) I can soak smaller fragile brass details in for removing solder? Cleaning each piece with a file or iron or ?? will be extremely tedious and time I would prefer to use elsewhere. The photo only shows a small percentage of what needs to be cleaned up before resoldering to another model. Just wondering.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

I was just wondering if there is a chemical (safe hopefully) I can soak smaller fragile brass details in for removing solder? Cleaning each piece with a file or iron or ?? will be extremely tedious and time I would prefer to use elsewhere.

Not that I am aware of that will not also attack the brass.

If not easily done by one of 3 files that I keep handy, I'm using my battery powered Dremel with a small sanding drum or wire cup wheel while holding the part clamped into a hemostat.

[Norton]

First off you have remove as much as possible with a solder sucker, desoldering wick and a Dremel with a steel wire brush.
Then you can use ferric chloride with a brush. You want the ferric chloride used to etch copper PCB boards which is slightly diluted. Ferric chloride also etches copper and brass but at a slower rate so as soon as the solder is gone throw the piece in water. The wire brush will clean off the remaining discoloration.
Amazon has all these items.

Pete

[bob turner]

Pete's suggestion is good, but for a quickie, just use solder wick (looks like a small brass woven ground strap). Then use the residual solder as tin, which will greatly aid in re-soldering. You really want a coating of solder to remain - promotes healthy strong joints.

I am jealous of those nice steps and washouts - I run through dozens of all of them on a typical model. In the global scheme of things they are not expensive - maybe a buck each - but it mounts up.

[Norton]

I would agree if you are going to paint the model, leave the residual solder film. Skip the ferric chloride unless you just want a brass model for display.

Pete

[E7]

Solder Wick. You won't get it ALL, but will be good enough.

Rich

[up148]

I have solder wick and will try it. On the boiler clamps and other really tiny parts I'm not sure the wick would work. But I will give all a try and appreciate the suggestions guys.

What I've found so amazing is these details from the 3rd Rail Z5 are so much crisper/cleaner and the larger details like the generator have so much more detail to the detail....if that makes sense. Available PSC details just look like the same old 30-40-50 year old castings. Whereas the nuts, bolts rivets of these Korean or Chinese parts look like what they are meant to represent...........instead of just blobs.

[Norton]

One thing to note about solder wick. It comes with and without flux. The type with flux is much easier to use. If you have a type without flux its best to add a few drops of your own to the area in contact with the part.

Pete

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Available PSC details just look like the same old 30-40-50 year old castings.

The molds have not been updated for many years......

[up148]

Thanks Pete, I wondered why I've had such poor results with my solder wick.........actually its almost totally useless, so I just stopped using it. Years ago I bought several rolls in different widths and all gave poor results........I'll try wetting with flux. Thks!

Butch

[up148]

Available PSC details just look like the same old 30-40-50 year old castings.

The molds have not been updated for many years......

Yeah, and although they deny it (using their BO procedure) they aren't getting any new castings from what I've been told.....one friend has been wait almost 2 years and nothing.

Things have changed in our hobby and with 3D printing, the requirement for brass details we be even more limited. Maybe if a guy was sure he was going to paint his brass model a 3D printed part would work..........but that is not my intention.

Once again I'm late to the party.

[sarge]

Butch, another technique is to hold the part with a haemostat/forcep/surgical clamp, heat the part with a small torch with the flame kept rather round and yellow rather than the full-bore pointed blue. One the solder melts, rap the haemostat of the edge of the workbench and the excess solder will simply fly off. I do this all the time with brass repairs. What remains is equal to a proper tinning of the part.

Another overlooked tool to add to the arsenal is a solder-sucker.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

......... haemostat/forcep/surgical clamp.......

These fall under that old adage that you can never have too many clamps!

[up148]

Another overlooked tool to add to the arsenal is a solder-sucker.

Good idea. I've seen them advertised in the past but didn't know how well they worked. The "flicking" idea sounds interesting too.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

The "flicking" idea sounds interesting too.

Just make sure that you "flick" away from yourself!!!