FEF Project...Many Questions and Photos over time

[up148]

Well, I decided to strip the paint off of a 3rd Rail N5 shell I bought last summer on EB to use for spare part detail parts and I'll post the results....very impressive model and the brass sheet thickness seems to be the same as the KTM.

It's a much harder finish than the FEF was (no surprise there) and now that I've breached the paint surface in some areas and see brass, it's working faster. Since this stripper instructions say it only works when wet, I believe I will spray it and wrap it in saran wrap to keep it moist.

4'' of snow on the ground and 8" to 10" forecasted by tomorrow morning so nothing else to do.

[robert.]

I recommend to people “always cover the item you’re working on” it helps keep it wet. You may find it better to use a PVC tube and cap off the ends. Shrink wrap might melt

[up148]

That is a good idea Robert and I actually did that back in the 90's with brake fluid...........works fantastic....hated the clean up. I may do it on this model using this stripper as well, but I can't get out right now to buy the PVC pipe and caps.

So, I decided to try wrapping it in saran wrap and see how it does. This remover comes in gallons too and I thought I could completely submerge it in this solution using the PVC tube idea. We'll see how wrapping does.





The unwrapped photo is after several sprays and light brushing with an acid brush.

[bob turner]

If you wind up bead blasting, use 35 psi or less.

By the way, my J4 magneto experience has uncovered a bad (brand new) Packard 440 spark plug lead. Only took me a month of part time effort (remember, 84) to uncover it. If you still have sources in the aviation industry, I am out of the Pamcor sleeves for the Packard shielded wire, and they are considered obsolete by AMP, so I am in the used market, hoping to uncover a drawer full at some radial engine shop.

[robert.]

If you wind up bead blasting, use 35 psi or less.

By the way, my J4 magneto experience has uncovered a bad (brand new) Packard 440 spark plug lead. Only took me a month of part time effort (remember, 84) to uncover it. If you still have sources in the aviation industry, I am out of the Pamcor sleeves for the Packard shielded wire, and they are considered obsolete by AMP, so I am in the used market, hoping to uncover a drawer full at some radial engine shop.

Leroy’s magnetos in litiz pa. An Amish guy. Google him. You’ll get his contact info

[up148]

Glad Robert chimed in, I'm so far removed from aviation I wouldn't know where to look. I retired 7 years ago (at 70) and most of my old aviation cronies are either retired or dead.

[up148]

I bought this BernzOmatic hobby propane torch off of Amazon ($40) and it arrived last night. I just used it......and once I realized I should melt the dome solder from inside the boiler and not from outside, the dome literally fell off in 4-5 seconds. The fake hatches came off in seconds as well.

The stand holds the bottle tight and the holder for the torch is metal lined to handle it when it's hot. The flame can be adjusted a little further down than shown in the photo....and much larger if needed.

I have a lot to learn to use this torch correctly and great caution will be the order of the day, but so far I love it. Obviously the right tool for this type of job and the price was reasonable IMHO.

[up148]

Well this torch is making me a Dr. Frankenstein.......... Restraint, restraint, resti....re.......

Removed the stack and very interesting how it was fabricated by KTM. The new stack was bought in the late 90's or early 2000's from 3rd Rail parts department in anticipation of this project. I'm very glad I did as it is right up there with KEY or OMI except it's not brass......looks like some type of pot metal. But, once I grind off the metal under the skirting that fits into the original 3rd Rail FEF it will fit perfectly......or maybe just open up the top of the boiler and forget the grinding.....don't know at this stage.

[86TA355SR]

Butch,

That’s a nice torch setup for the $.

The 3rd Rail casting alone will really improve the model. There’s something about putting on a nicely detailed stack, it just changes the whole look of the model.

Aaron

[up148]

Totally agree Aaron on both the torch and the stack, and I intend to add some Scale Hardware N/B/W items to this stack as well as other areas of the model. I'll most likely be adding details that almost no one will see or care about, except really sick rivet counters like You, Greg and a few others.

A lot of the fun is the thinking and planning stages and for once in my life I'm actually doing what I've wanted to do for decades........truly a case of "better late than never". The biggest problem I've found with my delay is finding the parts that were available back in the day, but no longer.

[86TA355SR]

If we only knew Scale Hardware would cease to exist at the time, many of us would have bought as much as we could for future stock/projects. The PSC NBW castings are ok, just not as much selection in size and quality IMO. The SH stuff was perfect for the “necessary” level of detail that some folks prefer.

Greg sometimes tells me, “It’s a sickness” when we joke about some of our detailing efforts, haha! Seeing his stuff is a real inspiration, beautiful work. Makes me want to build the best model I can.

Another item that really adds to the USH steam locomotives are lagging clamps. Since typically most are looking down at the model, the upper boiler details really stand out-return spring on whistle, NBW castings, chords, etc. In general, it gives a complete look to the model, plus when you paint it, provides an area to highlight with dry brushing or a “wash” making the details “pop” visually from the boiler.

Be aware of the “sickness” it’s contagious and known to spread quickly with only one model….

[Rufus T. Firefly]

The biggest problem I've found with my delay is finding the parts that were available back in the day, but no longer.

I am increasingly confronted by this issue. Brass and other metal parts are fading. Styrene parts are starting to evaporate.

The supposed solution of a 3D printing boon has either not delivered or the suppliers are not reaching us.

[big bad jim]

I keep seeing reference to Scale Hardware not being available any longer. I'm under the impression that they were acquired by one of the model automobile companies that used to be associated with Scale Hardware. As far as I know the line can be found at https://modelmotorcars.com/collections/small-parts-hardware?filter.p.tag=Hardware&page=1&sort_by=manual. I can't say for certain that it's the old Scale Hardware product, but it sure looks like it. The lettering at the top of the page matches that on a package of bolts I have here, that I purchased years ago.

It looks like some parts are out of stock. I have no idea if there are intentions to restock, or instead let the line fade into oblivion. Perhaps somebody could send them an email.

Jim

[up148]

That is what I understand as well, Jim. Model Motor Cars bought the inventory of SH several years back and stating when they did that their intentions were to just sell off the existing inventory and would not be remaking or replacing anything. So, once it's gone, it's gone. Unfortunately, I don't know of anyone else who supplies this size of scale hardware.

[up148]

Well, I haven't done much modeling on this project, as I've been acquiring tools, parts and ideas to make the task easier and more successful. So, this is more like a show and tell, than any model progress.

I took Roberts advice and bought (sticker shock) the parts to make a 4" x 24" soaking chamber. I built one decades ago and used brake fluid for stripping, but soaking in the Maxi Strip will be a much cleaner operation.

It was also suggested to me, that I could use a Dremel and flex shaft tool, with an end mill bit to open up the sand and turret domes or anything else on this model. That never occurred to me.....it should have.....but it didn't. I've been fretting about getting a mini drill press or mini mill, but the cost is exorbitant and I wasn't willing to spend the $$. The sad part is the same machines I saw 20-25 years ago are now selling for 3-4 times more $$$.

I got the old Dremel out and the flex shaft tool I bought in the 80's and neither was up to the task tackling this project. So, both are going to my 14 year old grandson who just got into building plastic model boats and tanks.

So, I took the plunge and bought a new Dremel 8250 cordless model and the newer/upgraded 225-02 flex shaft tool, plus a hanging stand. Best money I've spend in a long time and way more reasonable than I imagined. The torque difference between the old 7800 and the new 8250 is night and day. I could stop the 7800 "easily" at almost any speed, while the 8250 will almost peel the hide from your finger trying to stop it at 5000 rpm.....you can stop it, but the effort needed is a magnitude higher than expected. And, I will need that torque if I'm going to hand mill openings in this model.

Hope to get back to modeling by this weekend.