2Railing An Weaver VO-1000 Doable?

[2railjon]

Jay, no concern with hi-jacking the thread here! Your work is fascinating!!
Also, my apologies for not taking the time to send you a note with the VO as I was quite hurried with chores. Please give it a look when it arrives and your thoughts on the project. I’ll PM you my cell number. Thank you!!

[big bad jim]

Jay,
The .005 scale wall thickness was just a translation from the prototype dimension. While I love the idea of making things 100% to scale, I realize it's not always practical. If K+S made a brass tube with their standard .014" wall, in 1" diameter, I'd probably just go with that and call it a day. But they don't offer it in sizes larger than 5/8".

I'm not terribly worried about the idea of commercial viability. But I am cognizant that if I made something cool, and showed it off at all, that other people would probably want something like it. But for me personally, I'd start with 5 copies.

I have a Unimat 3 lathe sitting in the basement. I'm about to take my second machining class at the local community college here, which is supposed to focus on lathe and mill operations. Maybe after I get a better idea of what I'm supposed to be doing, I'll take a shot at cutting some rings.

Bob, regarding etching, at a minimum there is PPD in the UK. Lots of people in the hobby use them, and they are fully on board with model rail/hobbyist short run jobs, at reasonable prices. Especially if the artwork is already done. Beyond that, there are clearly guys in the states that handle it, because I've seen work that's been done here. Ron from Des Plaines uses somebody for his gp9 parts, Jay at least knows somebody that knows somebody, because there were etch parts done for that KM diesel hydraulic several years ago, Cannon has lots of etch parts in his kits, PSC, Yarmouth Models, Protocraft, Mullet River, and I'm sure plenty more have clearly sourced etching suppliers.

And Jon, it was me that hijacked your thread, not Jay. But if you want to blame him, that's fine by me!

[big bad jim]

And yes, I had considered the idea of a forming die for the flanged base ring. Along with any number of other parts. I figure with a thin enough material, plus dies, plus an arbor press, I could make some useful parts.

[bob turner]

So for your machining class make a male & female pair that slide on a common shaft. Heat a small sheet of .020 brass (with a hole to match your guide) cherry red, pitch it in cold water, then “wham!” with a big lead mallet. Wear safety glasses.

[Jay Criswell]

Jon,

Arrived safe & sound. Getting ready for OSW but I'll call you upon my return.

O/A looks fairly easy. Okay, now I jinxed it.

Jay

[bob turner]

I may see you there. Getting the Decathlon all ready to bypass the Memorial Day traffic.

[2railjon]

Jay, thanks for the heads up! No rush at all!
Enjoy OSW!!

[gnnpnut]

Jon,

Would have preferred inches or mm down to the 3 or 4 decimal but 3/6" will work for now. Are the axles shouldered down where the wheel is pressed on? We could always machine new insulators and install them in NWSL 40" wheels that have been bored out (NO, not drilled).

Jay

Hi Jay:

Hmmm, learn something new every day. First time I read this, I figured that you were finish reaming this hole, which of course, follows the path of the drilled hole. Since you were quite adamant that you were boring this hole, I figured I go looking. Most of my experience has been with CNC tooling on appx. 20" cube machining centers (horizontal). Any dowel pin hole I ever did (.250" smallest) was drilled and reamed (or boreamed, a neat little tool developed by Sundstrand Aviation tooling engineers).

Sure enough, I find carbide boring bars for holes down to .187". Wouldn't have known that if I didn't read your thread, so thanks. I may need that little tidbit when I retire and have some spare time to actually machine something again.

How small of a hole have you bored? And now that my curiosity is up, how much oversize do you bore, and what do you use for insulating material? Just curious, since I may have to rework a brass HO steam driver at some time in the future, just looking for tried and true methods that won't give me driver wobble.

Regards,
Jerry

[bob turner]

Yeah, me too. I had no idea one could bore such small holes. I have always used crankshaft drills and reamers - and collets!

[Jay Criswell]

Jerry,

I think the smallest I've bored is .0625". It might have been smaller. I really can't remember, for sure. I do have one boring bar the will go smaller. They make them much, much smaller. Just like tiny drill bits, patience is a virtue.

Jay

[Jay Criswell]

Jerry,

I guess I didn't answer your other question. I have maybe half a dozen Delrin bushings and the holes for them vary from let's say, .110" to .187". It all depends on the wheel and application.

Jay

[gnnpnut]

Jerry,

I guess I didn't answer your other question. I have maybe half a dozen Delrin bushings and the holes for them vary from let's say, .110" to .187". It all depends on the wheel and application.

Jay

Hi Jay:

Thank you very much for your answers. I've filed this information away in the event I should ever need it.
Regards,
Jerry

[Jay Criswell]

Used some of the small boring bars doing these drivers.

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Kemtron Mogul converted to P:48 using my driver castings (originally from Clouser) , tires and motor mount for the Faulhaber 23242. Because of space constraints and the customer's desire for the biggest flyway I could make and install. There's just not much room. Anyway, small boring bars used numerous times. The 2mm motor shaft slides into the input shaft of the .5 mod NWSL gearbox. Fun little project.



Jay

[sleepmac]

Jay, will you be so kind as to explain the difference between a "boring bar" and a regular twist drill bit? Thank you very much.

Dan Weinhold

[bob turner]

I am officially impressed by your skill and tenaciousness. Every time I think about machining another driver tire I go flying.

Those are works of art.