Hobo Jungle
Jon,
Lets see some pics of the garden layout so far. $450 bucks? That's a little less than half of what I've got in track so far,,,,,and I don't even have a yard!
I've got 7 loco's, 24 pieces of rolling stock, and six buildings. I gotta get a yard!!!
What did you get for loco's and rolling stock?
Lets see some pics of the garden layout so far. $450 bucks? That's a little less than half of what I've got in track so far,,,,,and I don't even have a yard!
I've got 7 loco's, 24 pieces of rolling stock, and six buildings. I gotta get a yard!!!
What did you get for loco's and rolling stock?
Too (O)ld for (n)scale by (30)years.
http://raspberrygulch.org
http://raspberrygulch.org
S-l-o-w Down, Cappy!!!!!!! This is all planning stage estimates!!!! Here is my track cost so far:
8' Radius 16pcs. 64.99
8' Radius 16pcs. 64.99
8' Radius 16pcs. 64.99
8' radius 16pcs. 64.99
16' of straight track 34.00
My pricing is from St.Albon's and it's for solid brass. I've pretty much kept it simple and colorful in the engine w/ sound:
Here is my track cost so far:
8' Radius 16pcs. 64.99
8' Radius 16pcs. 64.99
8' Radius 16pcs. 64.99
8' radius 16pcs. 64.99
16' of straight track 34.00
My pricing is from St.Albon's and it's for solid brass. I've pretty much kept it simple and colorful in the engine w/ sound:
Last edited by 2railjon on Wed Aug 03, 2005 6:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Running that red block Charlie.
Sounds like you are going to do alot of round-die round.
I may be off base here, but I've been hearing alot about problems with St Albons lately. Something about their order system not being secure.
That looks like a great loco to start with. Who makes it? Looks alot like mine. Mine is LGB Queen MAry series.
Check out www.rrstation.com before you buy. I've ordered stuff from them and it came fast.
Ya definitely want to go with a hefty power supply. 10 amps or better if you want to run more than one loco.
Are you planning on staying DC, or going to some other system? I went Digitrax DCC so I can use the same system that I have on my On30 layout. Ya just flip a switch to go from Ho to G.
Anyway, you better watch out with the G scale. If you are anything like me, the indoor layout will suffer. I don't think I've worked on the On30 layout at all since I started with the G scale. It can get really addictive.
Capt., Thanks for the tips and links, I'll check them out. It will be a slow approach, so there's plenty of time to digest everything. And I'm not worried about leaving the comfort of my O scale air conditioned/heated little train house!! The weather here is pretty brutal on the extreme ends. Thats one reason I'm looking at a stone paver foundation and a way to anchor the track to it.
Running that red block Charlie.
Jon,
Most people do "not" anchor the track. Because of temp extremes outside the track needs to be free to move to compensate for expansion. The only place that most people anchor the track is, for instance, on bridges and trestles. The track is held in place by the ballast elsewhere. "Crusher fines" is the recommended ballast for G scale. It is sharp so that it locks itself together. Most people seem to be mixing a very small amount of cement into the ballast to help lock it together. Some people use pea gravel, but it usually is rounded, and will not lock together. It requires frequent replacement.
Before you put anything in permenant, lay your track out where you figure you will want it an see how it works. Shim it with sticks, pieces of board, or whatever, to get it flat and supported. Then run the train and see how everything looks, and works. Watch out for grades. Change things as you see fit till you get everything like you like it. Run it for awhile before you do anything permenant. G scale, being as big as it is, is real easy to change around.
You will find grades in places that look perfectly level to you with just the naked eye. After you figure out exactly what you want to do, an are ready to put it down permenant, look into split rail clamps to replace the stock clamps. They hold together much better and will give you a lot less problems with electrical continuity.
The paver stones for a road bed are a great idea. Some people use concrete blocks. Either make a very stable roadbed.
As far a the heat outside, and AC inside, setup your controller at a window looking out over the layout. That way you can sit in the AC and run the trains too! I've got a tiny wireless video camera that I put in the loco and drive loco from inside.
How much lazier can you get?
Most people do "not" anchor the track. Because of temp extremes outside the track needs to be free to move to compensate for expansion. The only place that most people anchor the track is, for instance, on bridges and trestles. The track is held in place by the ballast elsewhere. "Crusher fines" is the recommended ballast for G scale. It is sharp so that it locks itself together. Most people seem to be mixing a very small amount of cement into the ballast to help lock it together. Some people use pea gravel, but it usually is rounded, and will not lock together. It requires frequent replacement.
Before you put anything in permenant, lay your track out where you figure you will want it an see how it works. Shim it with sticks, pieces of board, or whatever, to get it flat and supported. Then run the train and see how everything looks, and works. Watch out for grades. Change things as you see fit till you get everything like you like it. Run it for awhile before you do anything permenant. G scale, being as big as it is, is real easy to change around.
You will find grades in places that look perfectly level to you with just the naked eye. After you figure out exactly what you want to do, an are ready to put it down permenant, look into split rail clamps to replace the stock clamps. They hold together much better and will give you a lot less problems with electrical continuity.
The paver stones for a road bed are a great idea. Some people use concrete blocks. Either make a very stable roadbed.
As far a the heat outside, and AC inside, setup your controller at a window looking out over the layout. That way you can sit in the AC and run the trains too!
I've got a tiny wireless video camera that I put in the loco and drive loco from inside.
How much lazier can you get?
I have an extra siding or two. I just need some type of ramp to load and off load them. I think I remember seeing an article in CTT a year or so ago where this guy showed how to take Preiser figures and turn them into WWII era soldiers. The scene he had them in had a nice ramp, I'll have to dig the issue up.
What's on your hit list today?
What's on your hit list today?
Running that red block Charlie.
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