Car Thread

[rogruth]

Robert,

Thanks for that definition.
It makes sense and now I don't need to ask.

[Tony-h]

Well, Gentlemen, time for a short update.

When purchased the engine, last run in 1989, was stuck. Pulled the plugs and filled the cylinders with ATF. A friend stopped by on his lunch hour and we pulled the car out to the street. The first attempt, easy on the clutch, slid the wheels. Popped the clutch on the second pull and away it went. Used the starter to back up to the drive. Put the plugs on the wires and the green jewel has spark! Just might hook up a can to check out the carb. If it runs OK I just might put my 22 T plate on it for around the neighborhood.

Life can be good!

[sarge]

Way-Hey! Hooray for your side!

Be careful of sticking valves though, when you start it the first time, because the springs can take a set or the stems could be stuck all the way up. It's probably worth a new valve cover gasket to check 'em or at least a trip round with a compression check. These are solid lifter cars so won't forgive you if the stem is seized.

[healey36]

More proof that ATF is good for many things besides ATF...

Congrats Tony...

Healey

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VkrUG3OrPc

[Tony-h]

Thanks fellas. Spinning the engine over sans spark plugs didn't elicit any valve noise. Put the plugs in and put some crash-dash in the air filter. She popped a couple times. Cranking speed gave instant oil pressure and a normal sound like all cylinders have decent compression. Will add some MMO to the gas later.

The gas tank came in today, along with wiper blades and the insurance cards. Washed the spare. Never been out of the trunk (SORRY! BOOT!).

And awaaaaaay we go!

A very satisfied Tony

[Mitch]

More proof that ATF is good for many things besides ATF...

Automatic transmission fluid is EXTREMELY high detergent. I think it'll damn near penetrate glass! You get an older engine that you know is just full of sludge, add 1 quart of ATF and spin it up to 2,000 RPMs for a half hour, drain it (HOT) and change the filter, then fill with fresh oil and filter, (no more ATF), and repeat. Be prepared to do that three times in a row without letting the engine cool down, because if you don't, the ATF will have loosened all the paraffin and sludge that will gravitate to the pan, and seal the oil pickup off perfectly, and the next cold start will lead to disaster. Let it sit 10 minutes after the 3rd draining with the plug still out, then refill and change filter again, then drive it for a couple of hours, and then knock the oil and filter out again, refill, and you should be good to go. Oil and filters are cheap; engines are rather expensive.

[robert.]

Atf killed the proteins in a friend's fingers. Kenny is a tranny rebuilder. He does not remove or install trannys. just sits and cleans and repairs. He never used gloves on his hands during rebuilds. It took about 3 years of wearing compression gloves to bring his fingers back to normal. The long and short of it is the atf cleaned all the oils and fatty tissue out of his skin. He's fine now and works with telephone lineman gloves on up to his shoulders. Keep that stuff away from your skin.

[sarge]

Tony:

We are starting on the second go-round with the front-end now that we've driven the Midget for a while. A wheel-bearing (near-side front) further manifests itself as past it and we're going to do the front springs this trip; a bit down at the head and listing to the driver's side (the "Bachelor's Lean"). New tyres er tires have been priced so that should then have the running gear in good nick. Waking these little guys up is a repetitive exercise for a little while, but what a hoot to drive round the B-roads trying to find the things still needing help.

[Tony-h]

Hmmm. Why don't you try putting a larger tire on the left front? Should reduce the list to starboard! The Michelins on my limo are hardly worn but I noticed at least one has some inside sidewall cracking. Not too worried about that since the steel belts aren't bleeding rust yet. Will have to remind myself to keep the velocity under 75 mph!

Engine wise, the motor, when fed some spray thru the air filter, runs extremely smooth and quiet. The fuel pump packed it in sometime in the last century so I will search for a Facet style electric job. Then I can get some fuel to the carb and see what happens there. I replaced most of the vacuum hoses and the overflow tank line. New washer bag and the pi**ers work fine. Need two horns, coming off my old Dodge van. The tach seems dead. Four new tachs cost more than the car! This winter I plan on dismounting the tires and getting the wheels sand blasted and epoxy coated. Boy, how I hate to throw those nearly new tires away!

BTW, a friend came across a late model Midget in W. Va., new engine and on the road. Owner has cancer so is asking $3500. About all I know now.

Enough rambling on. Bye!

[Mitch]

Tony:
we're going to do the front springs this trip; a bit down at the head and listing to the driver's side (the "Bachelor's Lean").

Hmmm. Why don't you try putting a larger tire on the left front?

Yeah, Sarge. Why fix it right when you can half-a$$ it?

[sarge]

Now, Mitch, you know Tony's kidding!

There are some idiots who merely swop the springs near-to-off so they "wear" evenly! I had someone recommend doing that in all seriousness! Others (show people are infamous for this one) wedge them. The wedges are actually commercially made!

These are the people who don't drive these things, though, because none of the "cheap" solutions do the handling any good at all.

In all seriousness, a larger tire will of course rub the car especially with the springs done in...

So, off we go to spend the coppers and do it right.

[Tony-h]

Mitch!!! I am surprised you agreed with my silly statement!

The problem I envision, assuming worn bushings, etc. are not the main cause of the list, is getting a replacement spring that matches the right hand spring, or getting a matched set not made in China.

I remember they used to sell tapered wedges to drive between 2 coils to restore the overall height of the spring. That would really screw up the handling since the wedged spring would be less compliant and would bottom out sooner. Do they still make them?

[sarge]

Tony:

They still make those stupid wedges; probably OK for the trailer toffs but, you are right, they do screw up a car that actually drives faster than parade speeds or around corners!

It isn't just the height that becomes difficult to match, but the spring rates between a replacement and an existing spring. Best is to replace in pairs.

[healey36]

The Sprite had wedges on the front coil springs when I bought it back in 1990. I had never seen those used before. I replaced the front coils and rear leaf springs long before the car ever returned to the road, so I can't really comment on the handling effect. I expect it would have been severe. Two years ago I had the steering rack refurbished...that made a huge difference. Suddenly things were a lot tighter...more so than I'd realized how "loose" things had gotten.

[sarge]

It's all part of the waking exercise, and one reason mine was as "cheap" as it was. The guy that had it before me started down that road but didn't really have the patience (probably more correctly and kindly the time to stay focussed) to go through the iterations a wake-up truly requires.

Both you guys know what that entails; some of it is the absolution of previous owner's sins and a lot is just the fact these things aren't very good at sitting around doing nothing. The reward will be reaped when the Midget is as well-sorted as the B is right now; which reminds me, Tony, I hope you're hopping on that one in W VA. A spare is a good thing to have! One to drive after a day's spanner-wielding on the other. The one you have now plus the one in W VA still would be within the budget you had set for just one of these little monsters before we got involved!


(I'm a baaaaaaaaaad kitty.)