Figure painting

[healey36]

The flash under some figures’ feet would indicate these are 3D-printed. They are superb in their poses/composition and their detail. That’s the most important thing when it comes to getting good results - sharp detail. These are extremely well-painted IMHO.

[RBH29]

I think I already know the answer but is it possible to paint figures using a 3D printer? It would be way cool if you could. Maybe next generation of printers.

[robert.]

Can you get us some other contact info?

https://www.deviantart.com/fanai59/gallery
ifainges@hotmail.com I think his O scale figures are $30 each. I don't know if that is AUD or USD. He is in OZ.

[healey36]

I like his stuff. He has that "impressionistic" style, where he's not striving for pristine/perfect detail, but rather a certain look that conveys what you're looking at/for. Very nice. Have I already said that

[webenda]

So slightly undersized then? That dude looks like he should be a bit taller than 60 scale inches.

Looks can be deceiving.

The purpose of my posting the height of the figure (using the coin as a measurement standard) was only to indicate that the figure was O-scale.

In the picture, the figure is the same height as the coin. However, the figure is farther from the camera than the coin. You know how an object's distance from the camera affects the size of the image on the film or sensor. Knowing all this, you know that the figure is slightly taller than the coin.

An average Australian man is 5; 9" high. Maybe the dude is of average height.

[healey36]

Picked up a pre-painted Arttista figure (#1585) at Mainline Hobby Supply the other day; I wanted to see what happens if you dip/wash one straight out of the package (although I did give it a clear gloss overspray beforehand). Not sure if it's an improvement:



Lighting and the camera can be pretty unforgiving; remember the two-foot rule. Out of the pack is on the left, final appearance on the right, and the supplies used are at the bottom (except the can of clear gloss).

This guy has a "you touch my lunch pail one more time...".

Hope he pops off the dowel. I usually glue them on with a dab of rubber cement, but my supply seems to have gone to muck, so I used some white glue.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Like the improved facial coloration,

End grain - straight razor should pop him off the dowel.

[HONDO74]

I kinda like the I just got here take my picture before I get dirty look.....

[healey36]

I kinda like the I just got here take my picture before I get dirty look.....

Yup, I agree, he doesn't look too bad right out of the packet. Unlike some of their figures, this guy's got good facial detail and a decent amount of seams-n-creases in his clothing. He's listed as "Engineer With Wrench".

[healey36]

Like the improved facial coloration...

He's got a bit of the Eddie Munster eyebrow thing going on

Next time up, I might try another one of this casting, but repaint it in some other colors.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Picked up a pre-painted Arttista figure (#1585) at Mainline Hobby Supply the other day.......

I need to get up there for figures and other basic supplies soon.

[healey36]

Picked up a pre-painted Arttista figure (#1585) at Mainline Hobby Supply the other day.......

I need to get up there for figures and other basic supplies soon.

They have a ton of stuff, but the paint rack seems a shadow of what it once was. I get the impression that acrylics and old school enamels are not the railroad modeler's first choice (and many old school enamels aren't even being manufactured anymore).

Sarge said he needed some 1/48-scale fire extinguishers for the fueling rack, and dang if he didn't find them there.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Picked up a pre-painted Arttista figure (#1585) at Mainline Hobby Supply the other day.......

I need to get up there for figures and other basic supplies soon.

They have a ton of stuff, but the paint rack seems a shadow of what it once was. I get the impression that acrylics and old school enamels are not the railroad modeler's first choice.

Maybe not what it was, but I've got enough Polly Scale and Floquil to last me a lot of years.

And, with so many buying RTR, do they even need paint?

[robert.]

Have you ever tried Dollar store nail polish? with a few bucks you would have enough to mix any color you want and if it goes south you're only out $10.00.

[healey36]

Never thought about nail polish, mostly because it’s so thick. You have to cut that stuff with acetone, don’t you? That might be a problem, depending on what you’re painting. Tru Color is acetone based and I’ve used a bit of that, but it’s much thinner than polish.

The ship models usually start with a flat gray enamel from a spray can. They are so small, no need to drag out the airbrush. Figures just get painted with acrylics using a brush. I’m pretty much in the acrylic camp otherwise. If cost is an issue, you can buy good quality acrylic craft paint at Michael’s, Walmart, etc., it will work well and there’s a great color selection. You gotta buy the better stuff, usually $1.69 or so per bottle. The cheaper it is, the less pigment and the lousier the coverage. I generally use Vallejo or Tamiya acrylic model paint; they have high pigment and a wide range of colors.

Clear matte overspray has to be lacquer-based for me, though, and typically Tamiya. A lot of the rest of it is junk IMHO.