Top Tips for Modellers

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sarge
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Top Tips for Modellers

Postby sarge » Tue Sep 30, 2025 3:17 pm

I'm starting this thread as a repository for any tips and techniques that you think folks can use and might not know. For example:

To make clear headlight lenses, especially for brass models that came unpainted, this is an old custom painter's trick.

Fixture a piece of thick brass or block brass on your drillpress. I'm using my old Unimat mill, but a decent drillpress will work just as well.
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This will become a die or die-plate after you drill a hole in it that is the diameter of the lenses you need.
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Once you've drill through, do not disturb the set-up. You want the die to remain exactly where it is with respect to the drill-bit and chuck.

Unchuck the bit, take a file, and file the shank-end flat with nice clean sharp edges. The flat should ideally be at a little off-axis of the bit.
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Re-chuck the bit backwards, and it becomes the punch. With the motor off and using the quill handle to press through the die or die-plate you made with that same drill-bit, stamp out a supply of lenses from acetate sheet. I often use reasonably thick clear packaging, the stuff that is a pain to get open.
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The flat on the shank end of the bit won't affect the function of the bit as a drill-bit, so put it back in your drill index when you're done.

The plastic aircraft modellers have something called canopy cement, not only the thing for putting these in place but also for putting the glazing in cab window openings on brass, plastic, &c.
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Dennis Holler
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Re: Top Tips for Modellers

Postby Dennis Holler » Tue Sep 30, 2025 6:28 pm

Could I put in a reamer? I roll with a junky Rockwell 11” metal lathe at this point so have to be able to rack it up on the tool post so to speak!
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Rufus T. Firefly
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Re: Top Tips for Modellers

Postby Rufus T. Firefly » Tue Sep 30, 2025 8:16 pm

Once upon a time I had a few sets of cork borers that I used for making lenses -- wish I'd kept those now....
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sarge
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Re: Top Tips for Modellers

Postby sarge » Wed Oct 01, 2025 5:56 am

Dennis, I can't help but imagine making little 1/8" lenses and other such things on an 11" lathe is rather like threading a needle with a howitzer. :lol: :lol:

Still, if I was to do this on a lathe I'd look first at chucking a disc at the head, drilling it with a drillbit in a Jacobs in the tailstock, then flipping the bit round in the same manner as done above. The disc in the chuck is then the die, the drillbit in the tailstock the punch.

The beauty of this is the variety in diameters is only limited by what's in your drill index, and anyone with a small benchtop drillpress can use this rather than try to trim the little perishers to fit.

To be honest, I put this together after describing the process to a friend of mine who immediately put it to use happily glazing all the gages on a backhead. It was taught me by the guy who taught me how to paint and finish brass, back in the late-80s. All these years it never really occurred that this was a little painter's secret rather than common knowledge even in the "craftsman's scale", not until another friend spent a few hours carefully glazing portholes for an F-unit by hand with a pair of decal scissors and sanding sticks.

up148
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Re: Top Tips for Modellers

Postby up148 » Wed Oct 01, 2025 8:49 am

I really like the back head gauge lens idea. I know MM offers some type of lens cutter in their catalog, but I've never seen the results. This is much cheaper if you have the drill press.

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Rufus T. Firefly
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Re: Top Tips for Modellers

Postby Rufus T. Firefly » Wed Oct 01, 2025 9:15 am

I can't imagine making little 1/8" lenses at all. Mind numbing, and then having to pick them up and place them. Stuff like that flies off into space in my shop all the time eliciting inappropriate language, etc.
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riogrande491
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Re: Top Tips for Modellers

Postby riogrande491 » Wed Oct 01, 2025 10:44 am

Sharing tips is a great idea.

I've been punching lenses for 25 years with my inherited cast iron Craftsman drill press and a big index of factory-bent Horrible Freight drills.

When turning a bent drill around, it is important to locate the drill precisely over the die to avoid crunching an edge. Just bring the quill down and use the punch end of the drill and insert it in the hole. Then clamp the vise to the table so it will not shift. Check for free operation and adjust if necessary.

A pair of machinist parallels can be very helpful to keep the die from shifting in the vise jaws during the punching operation. A strip of paper inserted in the vise underneath the die can serve as a handy catch tray.

All the best!
Bob
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