Straightening Bent Detail

[up148]

Sorry guys, I've been offline since Friday, so I didn't know how far this thread had gone. I've attached some photos of the offending ,which I should have done on my 1st post, but I was at work. Not knowing the characteristics of brass (except mistakenly annealing some while soldering) I didn't know if raising the temperature by even 150-200 degrees might soften the brass and allow it to bend easier. I know now that is not the case. This will have to be done with care and hope.

The damage did happen while shipping, somehow, although the factory packaging is pretty good. You just can't tell how carefully a package will be handled and even a model supported in a cocoon of bubble wrap with the cocoon suspended in a box of Styrofoam peanuts, can sustain bent or broken details. I know.

In regards to Bob's comment about this model being superior to even KTM/USA, I agree. It is also superior to a Sofue locos. The only loco that beats it in my book, is the new KEY AC's. I seriously doubt we will ever see another steam loco that comes close to this level of detail, operation and engineering. It's the Mona Lisa of brass models IMHO. I just wish I liked that face on the AC's better. The KOH's Challenger might be a better loco, but I think they are really a tie. By design, the prototype AC and Challenger locos had more details and appliances than the 4-10-2 and I guess that's one important component of what really makes a great model, great. But, Henry was way ahead of the curve, when this model was imported in 2004, IMHO. Everything about it screams attention to detail and superior fit and finish. I only wish he'd done a UP loco.

It doesn't look bent all that much, but straightening the other (less bent) ML took all the strength I could muster while still being careful. I felt I was within micro-seconds of snapping it off. I always use my fingers since I get better feedback than using a tool, but maybe this one will require a well padded pair of small pliers. It's bent in two planes, back and inboard slightly, so that adds to the fun.

BH

[Robert]

Butch, Here's what I would do were it my model.

1.Take a wooden dowel about a 1/2" in diameter and at least 12" long.

2. Using a drill bit slightly larger than the outside dimensions of the ML, drill into the very center of one end of the dowel deep enough to fully capture the ML depth wise. Say 3/4" to 1" should be sufficient.

3. Put the drilled end of the dowel over the ML, and then hold the opposite end of the dowel so as to apply the leverage value of the dowels length.

4. Two things are working in your favor at this point....one being the relatively soft wood will not damage the ML finish....and more important the leverage applied slow and steady should make a successful rebend very possible.

I think this will work.

Best of Luck

Robert

[up148]

Sounds like a good idea Robert. I was thinking about how to apply leverage since my fingers struggle to add enough pressure without just breaking it off. Thanks and I believe this might be the path to success.

BH

[bob turner]

Um - tap, tap, tap. Wood dowel is a better idea than a nail set.

[E7]

I think Robert is onto the best method so far. The longer the dowel (without it getting in the way), the better the leverage.

[sarge]

Butch, I personally wouldn't go tapping on it, for "feel" is what might save you here. Beating on it, you can't feel when you might be approaching yield.

Me? A forcep or two would be my weapon of choice. If you can grab the yoke next to the solder joint, then all the better since that will probably be first to yield if you go tugging away or beating it straight. Then you cand ease the yoke into shape without stress concentrations, just very gently rotating away at it with a second forcep.

If you need to open the radius of the yoke, sounds brutal but consider a jeweling screwdriver or piece of brass barstock, one edge just below the solder joint at the smokebox and the other just below the joint at the lamp. Gently rotate to open it, but little strain on the joints.

You know as well as any, no guarantees but that would be my approach for what its worth.

Softly softly catchee monkey...

[E7]

The damage did happen while shipping, somehow, although the factory packaging is pretty good. You just can't tell how carefully a package will be handled and even a model supported in a cocoon of bubble wrap with the cocoon suspended in a box of Styrofoam peanuts, can sustain bent or broken details. I know.BH

It's mostly about the model being immobilized inside the packing. Think about passengers in an automobile NOT wearing seat belts. In a crash, they who are NOT belted in are propelled forward and meet up with the interior with sometimes devastating results. That is why a lot of sellers have the brass attached to a board which is the length of the package, so it can't move inside the packing. If you have ever witnessed a "SORT" at one of the major shippers, you will understand what packages are sometimes subjected to. Double box (outer carton a couple inches larger on all six sides) and immobilize the brass.

[up148]

Butch, I personally wouldn't go tapping on it, for "feel" is what might save you here. Beating on it, you can't feel when you might be approaching yield.

Me? A forcep or two would be my weapon of choice. If you can grab the yoke next to the solder joint, then all the better since that will probably be first to yield if you go tugging away or beating it straight. Then you cand ease the yoke into shape without stress concentrations, just very gently rotating away at it with a second forcep.

If you need to open the radius of the yoke, sounds brutal but consider a jeweling screwdriver or piece of brass barstock, one edge just below the solder joint at the smokebox and the other just below the joint at the lamp. Gently rotate to open it, but little strain on the joints.

You know as well as any, no guarantees but that would be my approach for what its worth.

Softly softly catchee monkey...

Agreed, and it sounds like an interesting process. I have forceps.

BH

[rex desilets]

FWIW: early Sunset/3rd Rail locos were packed in the same soft foam used for HO models. Constrains nothing. Received an I1 that was seriously damaged. Cost a bit to get it restored.

[up148]

I become a little obsessed with new purchases and try to learn everything about them, the importer and the builder, that I can. I'd never heard of Lik Enterprises, Inc., who Henry used on this project, so I went online to find more. Apparently Lik had been around since the early 2000's and mostly built N, HO and #1 gauge. Going to the "Spookshow" link, that also came up in the same "Lik" search, I see a $1600 "N" scale Challenger imported in 2004.

They went out of business in 2014 and I don't know if they went into another line of business, were purchased by a competitor or just went out of business. Below is a link to the railway classics website who apparently used them too, along with photos of a very nice, small, clean shop that was Lik Manufacturing.

http://www.railwayclassics.com/builders.htm

I've also attached a photo of their "N" scale SP GS series locos that they were sitting on when they went out of business. Apparently Korea Brass bought all of them and they somehow wound up being sold by Brass Trains in Florida. The comments on the website where I stole the photo says they ran flawlessly.

Henry chose the right company to build his 4-10-2 and just gives a little more insight into how hard he must have worked to bring in this wonderful model.



BH

[Rufus T. Firefly]

I have forceps.

You can never have too many forceps or types of forceps in the shop; invaluable tools!

[E7]

Butch,

Interesting stuff on LiK. $1600 for an "N" engine seems like a bunch, but then we got 7K+ "O" engines!

Passed my economic comfort level waaaay back! Still fun to look at the stuff, whatever the case.

Just wondering how you made out with your repairs? Hope it went well.

Rich

[up148]

Maybe this weekend Rich. Went to the dentist tuesday afternoon because of a 3 day toothache. Turned out the upper molar was garbage. 2 hours in the chair.....extraction, bone graft, implant and sutures, sort of took it out of me.

Gave me hydrocodone/acetaminophen pills for the pain. Took two at bedtime (as prescribed) and didn't sleep all night...didn't really care at the time and had no pain...but something in it kept me awake ALL night. No more of those for me. Still tired from not sleeping and still have pain.

Not a good time to be doing delicate work.

BH

[hibar]

Henry really stayed on top of his builders, unfortunately this many trips to Korea did not help an already ailing bottom line that was in trouble from his first import. I knew Henry long before he got into the business and last spoke with him at the Model RR Shop in Dunellen NJ when he was looking to get the last of his Trainmasters painted. just saying!

[E7]

Henry really stayed on top of his builders, unfortunately this many trips to Korea did not help an already ailing bottom line that was in trouble from his first import. I knew Henry long before he got into the business and last spoke with him at the Model RR Shop in Dunellen NJ when he was looking to get the last of his Trainmasters painted. just saying!

As good as Henry was at getting quality stuff built, he was, sadly, equally bad as a businessman. (opinion) I always think back to what "Pecos" John Smith said: "If you want to make a small fortune importing brass trains, start with a large one." He made an excellent choice of projects on the SP 4-8-2, and followed it with the worst possible, with the 1/20 diesel and ore cars. Beautifully done stuff, but NO market for it at the price ha had to have for it. Not that I'm a prospective buyer, but I wonder where they ended up?