Scratch Building #6 Turnouts (was Trout Creek/BK Enterprises Turnouts???

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

True, not to mention it'll just look better.

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

I grabbed a pair of wheels I had laying around and took them out to the mini-lathe to see if I could thin them down (on the backside). There's a dished area on the back of the wheels about 1/32" deep and I thought I I removed the part that's sticking out I could get the dimension between the wheels close to what the 2-rail wheel dimension is.

I chucked it up by the axle end that sticks out past the wheel, making the wheel flat up against the chuck jaws on the lathe. I managed to remove a bit of material before the wheel dropped out of the chuck.

The axle has needlepoint ends and the jaws in the 3-jaw chuck also have an angled edge on the inside face, reducing the amount of area that is clamping the axle in place.

End result is I can make 1 or 2 passes with the cutting tool before the wheels fall out, then I must set it up again to try to take more off. I was only taking off .003" with each pass, I think any more and the side forces would have knocked the wheels out anyway. If the jaws had a square surface on the inside face (vice the slight taper/chamfer) I could most likely do it, just not enough clamping surface.

I just thought of something...I have a small pin vise with a chuck on it. I think I can chuck the axle in that and then chuck the pin vise up in the mini-lathe!!!

More later!

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

It worked, but it would take too long to do several sets of wheels. Better start looking for Atlas, IM, NWSL, and Athearn wheelsets!

[E7]

Bob,

Not sure if it's still that way, but IM was still selling metal 2R wheels a while back. I've also seen (and actually bought) them on the great auction. Not sure which place was cheaper.

Rich

[bob turner]

Just put out the word. There are literally tons of really good uninsulated Scale Craft wheelsets out there. Often folks will mail them to you for postage. You will need to drill the sideframes out #41, since the SC wheelsets are stub end, not pointed. Also, flanges are ever so slightly deeper, which for you is good.

[Robert]

Bob D....Idea...can you stand to use PLASTIC wheel sets?. The reason I ask is because whenever I have built an Intermountain kit which just happen to come with plastic wheel set, I replace them with metal IM sets, and as a result I have a pretty good supply of the plastic wheel sets which you can have for postage. Pointed axle ends and a fine flange profile...there actually nice except for being plastic

Robert

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Robert,

Thanks for the offer, I'll send you an email.

I have some of the IM plastic wheels, other than being a little lightweight they work fine. I need to see if they'll fit in other brands (MTH, Lionel, Weaver) truckframes.

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Still waiting on the spike pliers, should have been here yesterday but will probably get here today.

So, making the #6 turnout took 2 lengths of rail, a bag of ties, spikes, and a frog. With shipping that would put building 1 turnout around $25 and a few hours of labor.

Only 18 more to go!!!

[E7]

there actually nice except for being plastic Robert

Isn't that sort of like: My girl friend would be cute if she wasn't so darn ugly

The big knock on plastic wheels is they make a bunch of dirt. Obviously not so important to Bob with his RC Battery power, but dirt is dirt.

Rich

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

IT WORKS!!!

The spike pliers came in today so I finished spiking the turnout. Also got a few packs of Atlas rail joiners.

I placed some of the rubber mat on the floor, placed the turnout and a couple of lengths of ME flex track, then plopped the Williams brass USRA 4-6-2 on the track.

Even though it was a short run, the engine seemed to roll fine thru the turnout. I cracked the throttle open as far as possible without running off the end and feel comfortable with the performance of the turnout.

I guess the real test will be to get a layout built and let the engines run!

Rich, I haven't been too concerned with the dirty wheels, but I happened to get a good look at the metal wheels on the USRA loco and they were filthy. While electrical contact isn't required, the dirt could cause a derailment if it got too thick.

[Robert]

On the plastic wheels...well aware of the dirt issue and only made the offer because battery power negates all contact problems. That plus the expense in converting a bunch of cars. So what ever you decide Bob is fine with me either way...

Robert

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Robert, email sent on the wheels.

I'm having trouble with at least one of my engines (MTH RailKing 2-8-0). The tender wheels want to ride up onto the guard rails, but hasn't fully done it yet. I don't know if the flanges are hitting the spike heads or if it's because of the narrower 3-rail spacing between the wheels, but I have to fix whatever is causing it. I have 2 of these 2-8-0 engines and I need to test all the others as well. The boiler/engine seems to run fine thru the frog.

Maybe I should remove a couple of the guard rail spikes and see if that cures it.

[Jay Criswell]

BodD,

I suspect it's the wider flanges used with 3R (by the way, that's why the back to back spacing is different). If so, you may need to move the guard rail so as to allow a wider gap between it and the adjacent rail. Not NMRA standard but either are the wheels. Your railroad, your standards.

Jay

[Rufus T. Firefly]

......move the guard rail so as to allow a wider gap between it and the adjacent rail.

That's the solution to this specific problem.

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Will do, thanks guys! It actually ran thru fine without the guard rails.