New Pilots for MTH C40-8

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R.K. Maroon
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New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby R.K. Maroon » Sat Jun 07, 2025 11:12 pm

A few years back, brother Pete bought a pair of MTH Conrail GE C40-8 locomotives that had been converted to 2-rail operation. The conversion included moving the pilots from trucks to the shell. Here is one of the units as arrived:

Image
https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/55or0vn9z9twg2l4o9498/MTH-GE-C40-8-Conrail-6127_01.png?rlkey=m8b9afaxttrq3fwqt1ehmujg9

Reusing the swivel pilots in a fixed-pilot configuration leaves several things to be desired. Jim Read and I volunteered to collaborate on a project to create more accurate pilots. Jim did all the research and design work on the cad models of the new pilots (the front and back pilots are not the same). My role to this point was to print out the intermediate test prints, modify the shells to accommodate them, and then feedback the results to Jim for model refinement.

The project is now at the point where all parts have been printed and assembly is about to begin. Here is one of the units with the new pilot bodies:

Image
https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/c3u3a5h9yl6mop8gqsnwf/MTH-GE-C40-8-02.jpg?rlkey=c5jyc6d7131xuu9ye0k107kex

A lot of detail parts get added to the pilot bodies to build up the final assembly. I will provide progress updates as things go along. The next step will be prepare the shells, which mostly involves removing material to create the correct interface for the new pilots. More later.

Jim
The link below any photo will display the image full size

brownillini
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby brownillini » Sun Jun 08, 2025 7:52 am

Jim -- looks good! What 3D printer are you using?

Leonard

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R.K. Maroon
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby R.K. Maroon » Sun Jun 08, 2025 3:51 pm

Hi Leonard -- Great to hear from you here!

My mentor and 3D-printing spiritual guide Jim Read recommended that I purchase a Mars 3 from Elegoo, which is the same machine he has:

Image

Online reviews at the time listed this as one of the best printers of 2022. The quality of the prints is really, really good. Here are close-ups of the pilot bodies:

Image
https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7616ipa7oukjk7mi2scjy/Pilot-Bodies.jpg?rlkey=6pkz5650jxjds9mva3kg1c5ua

Note that both of these have a sacrificial edge along the bottom of the pilot plate. The rear pilot on the left as a larger piece to remove than the front pilot on the right. Jim added these to CAD file on these to help keep the bottom edge of the pilot straight. There are many little tricks and techniques like this that one learns (or develops) to get the parts you want. The technology behind 3D printing in general and resin printing in particular is amazing, but there is no denying that there is also a good amount of artistry and craftsmanship in it as well. The parts don't spit out of the machine on their own.

I should add that the Mars 3 is now ancient in the resin printing world, but it's fundamental specifications regarding resolution and print speed still hold up well. Many of the features of the newer printers that make them "better" are really about ease of use and convenience. The Mars 3 is a great printer, especially for a hobbyist like me who only uses a 3D printer occasionally.

I should also say that for those that only need a printer to produce coupler shims and similar parts for which visual appearance is not a priority, I would recommend a filament printer over a resin printer. Dealing with the liquid resin can be a bit tedious and cleaning the machine is a chore. But, boy, does it produce good looking parts!

Jim
The link below any photo will display the image full size

up148
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby up148 » Sun Jun 08, 2025 6:41 pm

That is fantastic Jim. I know virtually nothing about 3D printing although my grandson and son play with it a little and make things. But, how do you come up with the design to be printed.

I talked to my son about making a 3D turbine engine similar to what is found in the early turbines, as I wanted to put it in the #50 double ended turbine, but I believe it is beyond him at this point.

Can you buy patterns or programs or ??? to make what you want or do you have to draw it up yourself?

brownillini
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby brownillini » Sun Jun 08, 2025 8:57 pm

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the info! I've a Saturn 3 Ultra that I bought last year still sitting in the box -- never had time to open it. Plus ventilation is another concern with the volatile organics. Like you mentioned, there are lots of tricks which I need to learn before I can get good prints like yours.

up148,

There are several programs that could be used to create 3D models. These get exported in a standard model file format and are sliced up in your printer's slicer software (the printer prints 3D models using 2D slices). Some common 3d modeling programs are TinkerCAD, SketchUp, and Blender. I personally use SolidWorks and also have some experience with AutoCAD and 3D Studio Max, but the learning curve on these tends to be higher, as is the subscription fee. (I only have access to them because of my work as an educator/researcher, which may be ending.) Like anything, it takes some time and practice to make good models. My skill is low intermediate at best.

There are some places online where you can download 3D models or get prints (e.g. 3Dcentraltrains), but the content diversity of scale equipment and parts is still pretty limited, IMO.

Best,
Leonard

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big bad jim
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby big bad jim » Sun Jun 08, 2025 11:40 pm

I can answer some questions tomorrow if Jim doesn't get to them first and discuss the parts and how I created them.

Jim (the other one)

brownillini
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby brownillini » Mon Jun 09, 2025 1:15 am

Jim (R) - Yes, would love to read more.

Leonard

up148
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby up148 » Mon Jun 09, 2025 9:15 am

This is interesting stuff and I'd love to hear more. :)

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big bad jim
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby big bad jim » Mon Jun 09, 2025 10:59 pm

I may not get to everything tonight, so I'll start by answering the easy questions first.

All of these comments will pertain to resin 3d printing rather than FDM printing. I can speak about FDM printing in general ways, I've done it in the past, but I've have zero firsthand experience with any of the current consumerist level FDM offerings. Ten years ago I was printing on a $75k commercial FDM printer, which is a lifetime in technology years. I bet the $300 hobbyist FDM printers of today yield better results than I could achieve on that high-end printer.

I have both the Elegoo Mars 3 (smaller build volume) and a Saturn 2 8k machine (larger build volume). Both machines are several years old at this point, and at least two generations behind the newest offerings from Elegoo. As Jim mentioned, despite their age both machines are still perfectly capable, and in reality the improvements in newer models, or "improvements" if you're the skeptical type, are in categories of ease of use, reliability, and convenience rather than leaps forward in print quality or capacity. The newest Saturns are up to 12k screens, but the improvement in the screen pixel size is only marginally better than the older 8k machine. It also makes for a rectangular pixel rather than square, which is kind of goofy. On the flip side, they now offer things like easier build plate leveling (I never had issues doing it the old way), built in heaters for the resin (pretty easy to manage with aftermarket solutions), and wifi connectivity for sending files (walking over from my desk with a flash drive works fine now). On top of all the stuff I don't personally need, the printer build volumes on the latest Saturns have actually gotten smaller than the Saturn 2 8k version I have now.

The latest Mars versions are much the same with respect to the hardware improvements. They did however jump from a 4k screen to a 9k screen with the introduction of the Mars 4, which does actually make a significant difference in pixel size and therefore XY resolution. The current generation Mars 5 is back to a 4k screen, while the Mars 5 Ultra has the 9k screen. However, both models have smaller build volumes, so the Mars 4 is still the model with the best XY resolution and build volume among all the Mars offerings. I'm actually considering getting a Mars 4 to optimize my print quality, and they are even cheaper now than they were before.

The premise behind JIm getting a Mars 3 was that I could create 3d models and the corresponding printer files, which I could email to him. He could then print them models himself, saving time and cost. Send the data, not the media. We are using the same printer, the same resins, and the same techniques. It all works well as long as the printers are performing as they should. It didn't hurt that at the time the Mars 3 was already last year's model, and on sale for an absurdly low price, so the decision for him to get one was fairly simple.

Ventilation is a good idea, to control both odor and potential toxicity. Interestingly, it's not the resin that's a problem for me, rather I have issues with the 91% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol that I use to clean prints. The odor is much worse than for any resins I've used, and extended exposure will irritate my throat. I run a spray booth fan to an outside exhaust whenever I'm working with the IPA, and I wear a 3M respirator designed for VOC's at the same time. The fan also keeps the IPA fumes from permeating throughout the house.

Regarding sourcing files for printing, it's a broad question with many aspects to consider. It's also the sort of question where the right answer is "it depends" because there are so many variables to consider. Do you have cad skills already? Can you learn them? Do you have access to a viable cad program? If you want to or need to purchase models, then can you find what you want from any number of cottage industry vendors or larger operations like 3dCentral. Are you prepared to pay to have somebody else do the modeling? Or maybe the alternative is to source a file from one of the online 3d printing warehouses like Thingiverse. The big issue with free files is whether you can trust them to be accurate (they often aren't), which brings up the question of your modeling preferences. Can you find models that are done to the level of detail and accuracy that you prefer.

For myself, I prefer to create my own 3d models. I'm pretty OCD about things, so I've got trust issues. I'm also willing to go to often dysfunctional lengths for modeling fidelity, but it's my time and I can use it as I like. My advantage is that I have plenty of experience with CAD, and I have access to two or three reasonably priced and highly capable cad programs, so I can do the 3d modeling work myself. My greatest obstacle is sourcing accurate and detailed information that will allow me to do the sort of modeling I prefer.

Absent the skill set and the access to programs, the challenge will be finding an existing model available for purchase or free download, or finding a cad designer that will create the file you want. There are existing models of gazillions of things, free or otherwise. There are designers out there that do model railroad work. Unfortunately, I'm not the best reference for either case as I've never had much reason to utilize those options.

I'm going to have to wrap up for tonight, but I'll follow up tomorrow with some comments about the available cad packages, and some notes on my methodologies. If I can figure it out again, I'll get some photos loaded up as well. If I think of anything else regarding sources for files, I'll add that to the discussion too.

Jim

up148
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby up148 » Tue Jun 10, 2025 11:53 am

That is interesting. I've found several files online to purchase of various turbine engines with none being correct, but I think I can modify the model once it is printed.

Question: Can this downloads be scaled to the correct size for 1/48th or 1/87th or 1/???. I ask because I bought a 1/48th scale 3D printed turbine engine online and it "might" be 1/87th, but actually scales out smaller. So, are these downloads "scalable" to the size you need?

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big bad jim
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby big bad jim » Tue Jun 10, 2025 11:15 pm

Butch,
There are two ways to sell one's work when it comes to 3d modeling and printing. Some people sell 3d printed parts produced from their cad. That's the way any number of cottage industry types or bigger brokers like 3dCentral go about it. The alternative is to sell the .stl file that can be printed by anyone with a 3d printer. Normally those models are already supported, so the only work required by the end user is to open the stl file in a slicing program, select the printer of their choice, and hit the "Slice" button.

From the end user's perspective, obviously the latter solution works better for those with printers or access to one. For those without their own printer access, receiving the physical model is the better option.

The seller's perspective is a bit different. Many designers won't sell the stl files, and in my experience that's the typical case in the model train realm. The issue is that once sent, the seller has absolutely no control over what the end user does with an electronic file. The honorable among us will print the model we are entitled to, which is fine. But there are many unscrupulous people in the hobby that will print multiples and offer them for sale as their own work. It's happened over and over, and in many cases the original designers cease trading, which is an unfortunate result for everybody else that plays by the rules. The alternative is to sell only the 3d printed output, while keeping the electronic version safely in hand. Sure, it's more overhead for everybody involved, but it's the only way for a seller to protect their intellectual property.

There are 3d content providers and warehouses that will sell the electronic files, and while often short on useable railroad content, they frequently have decent models of things like semi tractors or construction equipment or other railroad adjacent things we can use.

If you go the route of purchasing an electronic file version, then you can certainly scale it up or down. The slicing software will have the capability to scale the stl files up or down, change orientation, mirror, copy, and even slice apart. There are a few caveats of course. Whatever printer is used must have a large enough form factor to fit the print inside. The Mars is fine for smaller parts, and the Saturn can handle much larger parts. The problem is that the size of O Scale means larger models of course. Generally O scale items will fit in either printer without issue in terms of the X and Y dimensions. It's the Z height dimension that is usually the limiting factor for trains, whether O Scale or even HO at times (an 85' passenger car won't fit in a Saturn when standing straight up, for instance). What we really need for the model train hobby are printers with longer lead screw lengths and deeper hoods, as in tall and skinny dimensions. Instead we get bigger build plates, which don't help us. I've considered modifying one of my printers with longer lead screws, but that project is waaaaaaay down the long list of things to do at the moment.

Caveat #2 concerns scaling and its effect on wall thicknesses and details. Scaling, whether for 3d printing or laser cutting or any other technology, presents a common problem. 3d models are usually designed with specific features based on the output scale. Wall thicknesses are sized to be sufficiently robust while not being wasteful. Features have differing levels of detail based on what can practically be printed, or what will practically survive more than five minutes before snapping off. Think of the common tab and slot construction method for laser building kits. Slots are sized based on the thickness of the mating piece. The common refrain is "Can't you just scale it up, what's the big deal, it's already drawn" and so on, but in reality it's usually not that simple. If I take a model designed for HO Scale and scale it up to O scale, wall thicknesses will nearly double, and rudimentary details that render perfectly well in HO may look crude at the larger scale. Conversely, if the model is designed for O scale and is scaled down to HO, then wall thicknesses may become unsuitably thin, and the extra detail will become a blob rather than an exquisite feature. In tab and slot construction, tabs will either be too loose or won't fit in slots at all, depending on which way you go.

I'm trying to decide whether it's better to scale up or down if the model isn't already available in the desired scale, but I think there are pros and cons to both options. I suppose that for models with limited detail, it would be better to scale up, as increased wall thickness is an unfortunate rather than fatal flaw. If there is a lot of finer detail included on a larger scale model, then I would probably prefer to scale down, while keeping an eye on wall thickness. It may be a moot point anyway, I suspect that most models you might find for a turbine engine will be designed in something larger than O Scale, which would dictate scaling them down rather than up.

I'm out of time again, and still haven't addressed cad software or processes, so I'll try again tomorrow evening.
Jim

brownillini
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby brownillini » Wed Jun 11, 2025 1:48 am

Great discussion, Jim!

up148
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby up148 » Wed Jun 11, 2025 8:51 am

Thanks Jim, there's a lot of great information in your post....you should have been a teacher or instructor if you're not.....you explain things well.

I now know I can scale up or down, but the thickness and delicacy of of the component will be affected...something I never thought about. Fortunately, I'm only interested in the outer surfaces, but there will be outer details, in fact the more the better so the model looks believable. But, if those details appear clumsy when scaled up, that would be okay, as the components would only be seen through the side screening of the car body.

I know my son has mentioned .stl files and has used them for items he's made, so I will look around for those.

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R.K. Maroon
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Re: New Pilots for MTH C40-8

Postby R.K. Maroon » Thu Jul 03, 2025 12:06 am

I am behind on my posts here. The MTH C40-8 has most of its pilot attached to the truck, and removing that is simple enough. However, some of the pilot is attached to the shell, as shown in the photo below. Removing that is required to mount the new one-piece pilots:
Image
https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/u3niaz2xu9wm73i45djf3/01-Front-Deck.jpg?rlkey=fwygyiyjlg1as3fgfaddlxuzh

A seam line is clearly visible on the photo. Above the seam is the pilot deck, which is integral to the shell. Below the seam is a glued-on part. Jim R decided to remove the glued on part as well as the step behind it, leaving just the top deck. Here is a doctored version of the photo showing the part that has to be removed:
Image
https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/qamecf16872823rzoyt9o/02-Front-Deck-Removal.jpg?rlkey=utjcn3twmvfre4ttjfxtzvuk5

Jim R recommended this nifty little razor saw for the job:
Image
https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/rnxvo12ao95dtyart4dvo/Razor-Saw-01.jpg?rlkey=zdc32rmijbtadflrznm0843iz

The term "razor saw" is quite literal here: The saw has the form-factor of a straight razor blade:
Image
https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/uej8dq3ps3kpclkyfiwhx/Razor-Saw-02.jpg?rlkey=r8cq1tsa0ailk7d0s3irlxh60

The top edge has coarse teeth (a relative term), and the bottom has fine. The fine teeth are very fine indeed:
Image
https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/12l0x6ox0uot52k7uqwku/Razor-Saw-03.jpg?rlkey=8ruokzft97qcxxxbtso9g2a82

I find these saws a joy to use. The principal advantage is that the leave no saw marks -- you can lay it against the plastic shell to make a flush cut with virtually no marring the shell (but you do have to be careful). Also, they cut like a dream -- I figured with those small teeth that I would be cutting all day. Not so -- they are amazingly efficient and not much force is needed to feed the blade into the cut.

Here is what's left after the cuts have been made:
Image
https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/41zo1leygdntm66c2h07p/03-Front-Deck.jpg?rlkey=k4au468zggjo8wy4ozlt64xva

All for now. More to come.
Jim D
The link below any photo will display the image full size


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