2 rail at last

[CMorrill]

The extra spring pad bits allow you to model later design trucks without the spring plank ---- or to just do away with the pencil assembly.

Charlie

[robert.]

Moving along and breaking bits at a record pace. Almost half the ladder rungs were broke to start. Then i broke a few more. Does anybody make ladders in brass for gondolas? I hope with my next kits i'm not so ham-fisted. If i had the patience i might try to make the grab irons myself. Is testor's model cement good for wood to plastic?

[rrjjf]

Robert,

Northeastern Wood still offers, as far as I know, very fine O scale steel grab irons. They are about 0.015" in diameter and are the drop type grab iron. Check out their website. I have used them from time to time and liked the results. Intermountain plastic grab irons are very delicate.

Joe

[Robert]

robert.

Wood to metal is generally the realm of ACC type adhesives. I stock up on intermountain parts when ever their availability presents itself...largely because they are indeed delicate part which do not take much handling before they break. Work on your models when you really do have the time and patience to do your best work...saves frustration for sure. Those Intermountain cars are very nice and worth the care in assembling them.

Good luck.

Bob

[sarge]

The question of wood to plastic, CA on the wood and liquid plastic cement on the plastic. I like the stuff Plastruct sells over Testors, but it should work fine.

Wood to metal CA works fine in two steps. CA the wood as a sealant, then the area becomes non-porous and the CA you then use on the joint doesn't get wicked away.

Both of these work best for me; I'm sure there are other "bests" cherished by other excellent builders here.

[CMorrill]

Tichy Train Group has both straight and drop style grab irons formed from phosphor bronze. They also have roof corner grabs.

Charlie

[E7]

You could also try P&D Hobby Shop and Precision Scale.

[Nev]

"Wood to metal CA works fine in two steps. CA the wood as a sealant, then the area becomes non-porous and the CA you then use on the joint doesn't get wicked away."

Not a bad tip you should send it to OST. Ha, Ha.
Sorry mate couldn't help myself.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

You could also try P&D Hobby Shop and Precision Scale.

Yes, I use a lot of the PSC grabs replacing almost all that come with kits or in the course of rebuilding cars. PSC also sells a selection of ladders. Think that their minimum cost order is now $30, but a couple of packs of grabs, some nice brass air hose castings, and some ladders should get you to that amount w/o too much effort.

Metal to wood - CA most often will work just fine provided it's not end grain witch works well as a near infinite sponge of the CA. A film of Goo on the porous surface and CA elsewhere works but is not forgiving of error.

[robert.]

This is going to be a finicky car. It wants to keep climbing the rails.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

This is going to be a finicky car. It wants to keep climbing the rails.

Too light? Trucks/wheels catching on underbody somewhere?

[sarge]

I'm making a bet here and it's time to introduce Robert to a little faux-kinematics.

I'm going with the notion one truck needs to be loosened so it can rock freely while the other truck might turn freely but doesn't rock.

Back the bolster screws off a little. If the car rocks, make some pads to glue on the body bolster that match up to the little nubs you see on the top of the truck bolster; one truck only. Put the truck back on and see if those pads keep the car from rocking side to side. Adjust until the do.

Now, take the other truck off if it doesn't already rock freely and shave the nubs off the truck bolster. Put it back on with the screw loose enough so the truck flops freely side-to-side.

The free truck should now follow the irregularities in the trackwork easily while the car remains level as established by the pads on the other truck. You've essentially replicated the three-legged stool case, a form that conforms to any irregularity in the ground upon which it is placed.

You didn't have to deal with that in three-rail because the flange-depth kept the trucks on. With the finer flanges, you have to think about it a bit.

Make sense?

[Rufus T. Firefly]

..... the three-legged stool case, a form that conforms to any irregularity in the ground upon which it is placed.

Another little detail that we sometimes take for granted having done this for so many years that it become routine.

[robert.]

Ha a 3 legged stool. You guys should watch me balance a 17th century, 3 door, 6 legged French armoire. Two doors open one stays shut. One opens two stay shut. All while the customer tells me it is not the floor in my new Mcmansion.
I changed out the wheel sets for a larger set of metal ones. These plastic ones are to small and fall through the turnout frogs. All the guys on NK. should build a car from a kit. That would stop them from complaining about manufactures not adding special details
on to the couplers. Should i use the kits draft gear or kadee's?

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Ha a 3 legged stool. You guys should watch me balance a 17th century, 3 door, 6 legged French armoire. Two doors open one stays shut. One opens two stay shut. All while the customer tells me it is not the floor in my new Mcmansion.

Gee....it's French. Put some cheese under one leg.

I changed out the wheel sets for a larger set of metal ones. These plastic ones are to small and fall through the turnout frogs.

Small as in tread width? Hmmmmmm.....track standards?

All the guys on NK. should build a car from a kit. That would stop them from complaining about manufactures not adding special details
on to the couplers.

Traumatizing,

Should i use the kits draft gear or kadee's?

Hmmmm............ I personally go for Kadee's just ont he basic principle of standardization, but there are some kits where going with what's included works best - maybe someone that's actually built and run this will weigh in.